At 09:10 PM 8/13/98 -0400, John Vallely <vallely@ibm.net> wrote:
>Have my mga engine out .... opportunity to replace orig clutch w/ mgb
clutch and associated parts.
>....
>Any words of wisdom on the cost vs benefits? ...
Low cost conversion, very good benefits, and fairly easy to do (when the
engine is out).
And then at 11:16 PM 8/13/98 EDT, Joe Ratigan <RatiganJ@aol.com> wrote:
>.... I am quite happy with the end result. Depending on how you do
things, you will need to get some B parts here and there ....
Quick list:
a.) Flywheel from (any) 3-main MGB, about $50 used (optional, but highly
recommended). If you think the better clutch is a good idea, you'll really
like the lighter flywheel. Some people recommend even lighter yet, but
special is expensive, and too light makes it easy to kill the engine on a
slow start. To use the MGB pressure plate with the MGA flywheel you need
to remove 2 of the 3 alignment pins and add 1 (relocate one of the old
ones). That would be a machine shop job to get the new hole exactly right.
b.) New or rebuilt MGA clutch disk (no need to change the tranny input
shaft). Local parts stores know it generically as a 8-1-10 clutch disk (8"
diameter, 1" hole, 10 splines). Fairly common part used in many other cars
(past tense), such as all 6-cylinder Studebaker 1926-1960. Alternately,
you could get your original disk relined pretty cheap.
c.) MGB compatible pressure plate. If you want a good used one, I will
send you one for the cost of shipping. I don't need it, and space here is
at a premium. The stock "B" pressure plate will allow you to light up the
tires in second gear. If you're really serious, a competition pressure
plate will allow you to light up the tires in third gear (for an instant).
Any pressure plate stronger (stiffer) than the original one will make your
clutch disk last longer (less slippage), but may slightly shorten the life
of the u-joints in the driveshaft and of course the tires.
d.) From a 3-synchro MGB gearbox, the front cover and the clutch release
arm and attaching pivot bolt and release bearing clips, about $25 for the
set used (don't bother with a used release bearing).
e.) New MGB clutch release bearing (cheaper than the MGA part). Be sure
you have the clips for it. :(
f.) New bushing and pivot bolt for release arm (if needed). Also a good
time to check the slave cylinder rubber bits, push rod and clevis pin. (You
may get a decent used push rod and clevis pin with the MGB release arm.)
g.) New spigot bushing for the back end of the crankshaft. Dirt cheap,
usually in need of renewing, seldom given instructions, easy to change if
you know the tricks, just ask.
>.... You will probably need a new ring gear,
Not terribly expensive, and a good time to renew it if in need. And you
_can_ replace it yourself. If you need instructions, just holler. They
usualy come with the new gear, but can be a little vague. This could be a
good subject for another page on my web site. I've done the job recently
but didn't take pictures. Does anyone have a good close up picture of a
new ring gear?
Happy motoring. (Y're gonna love it!)
Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
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