>Today's questions for the class: The manual states to set the jet so it's
>level with the bridge, then lean (or richen - I forgot) the mixture 2 1/2
>turns. Should I choke the car during this initial setup? What should I do
>with the idle screws? I have these set at about 1/2 of their total travel.
>Lastly, what about those funny fast idle screws, the ones that sit to the
>inside and below the idle screws? Should I even touch them?
>
>
I'm more familiar with the HS-4 carbs, but I'm sure they are not too
different. On my AUD-465 carbs, you can no longer adjust the float as you
could on the older carbs. The last few sets of grose jets I got came with
washers which I presume were used to adjust the float fuel cutoff point.
I just replaced my grose jets with standard issue two weeks ago and I left
the washers out. I've never really got concerned about float height and I
don't think its a critical setting. (at laest it hasn't been for me over
the years)
I always set the mixture at 2 turns, warm the engine up after starting, and
then adjust the idle. I use the choke first. Watch the idle speed after
starting the choke and then you can eyeball the fast idle screws if your
fast (choke) idle is too fast or slow. I keep mine at 1500-2000 rpms.
I've been experimenting with colortune for a few years but the settings are
seldom off my standard mixture of 12 flats (two turns) summer and 14 flats
for winter. Those worked for me for many years.
I would recommend the Haynes SU carb manual if you really want to rebuild
your carbs. Of course, I also swear by the regular MGB Haynes manual too
but that is a different story.
And as far as the car not starting, did you check for fuel in the
floatbowl? I usually check spark then fuel when my car doesn't start
(although I don't remember the last time that was). Then I tinker with the
electrical or the carbs after that, based on I think the problem might be.
David
71 BGT
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