Thanks a million Rick,
After that explanation (and all the other work recently done) the job
doesn't seem like it would be so bad. I probably would have removed the
steering column rather than the rack from the cross member. Sometimes I do
things that make more work. I guess it makes up for the times when things
go too well. You saved a bundle of off road (and in the garage) time.
Off to the garage!!
At 02:43 PM 5/13/98 EDT, gofastmg@juno.com (Rick Morrison wrote:
>Steve,
> The pads should be easy to replace, as the bolts will clear the cross
>member when removed. (at least on all the cars I've done)
> The simplest way Iv'e found is to support the car via jack stands on the
>frame, behind the cross member and near the firewall.
> Unbolt the steering rack from the cross member (don't remove it, just
>unbolt) noting the position of any shims present. Tie the rack up such
>that it will maintian it's approximate position. This will avoid having
>to re-align the steering shaft.
> Place a floor jack under the center of the cross member and just take
>the weight, not enough to "unload" the jack stands. Using a stout chain,
>loop from the front frame member, under the cross member and over the
>frame behind the X-member. (safety factor, just in case the jack slips,
>you don't find the front suspension sittin on your head!) Loosen the four
>bolts holding the cross member to the frame, and slowly lower the
>X-member suffecient to access the pads. Remove one bolt at a time,
>replace the pad, and re-install the bolt loosely. Repeat three times.
> Raise the X-member into position, retighten the bolts and re-install
>the rack.
> Job finished.
>
>Hope this helps
>Rick Morrison
>72 MGBGT
>74 Midget
Steve Bettencourt
'79 MGB
Steve's HotRod World
http://www3.edgenet.net/CruizinRI
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