Matt Kulka wrote:
>
> >>> code5 <code5@ibm.net> 02/28/98 10:16pm >>>
> >Hello again from the Road Salt State--
> >My pistons are frozen solid...
>
> CRC makes a better spray lube than WD-40, and I'd bet a bagel they have
> a good penetrating oil. Used to buy CRC stuff at my local auto parts
> store, but I haven't seen them since I moved to NC.
>
> I've always had good luck using Coca-Cola to eat through rust on
> U-joints. Wonder if it would make the difference in your cylinders?
>
> After you spray or pour your penetrating stuff in there, don't forget to
> do some tapping on the metal. Helps vibrate the crud around to let more
> liquid into the cracks and crevices.
>
> If your engine block is on the workbench, set it on the concrete floor.
> (You can use a piece of plywood under it to spare the machined
> surfaces.) If the block's not supported sturdily, the force of your
> blows get diverted into the bounce of the wooden top of your workbench,
> the flexing of your engine stand, etc. Ever tried to chop wood on a
> soft dirt surface?
>
> Hope some of this helps.
>
> Matt Kulka
> '74 B - got all the engine parts, now just need time to put it together!
Matt--
I believe you're right about the workbench's absorbing my hammer-blows.
It converts the energy into the clearing of assorted tools and parts off
the bench and onto the floor (which, no doubt, loosens some of the rust
off of them--talk about your karma).
The plan: the block goes upside-down, padded, on the cement floor. I'll
try the Coke. I'll toast the outside of the jug through the water-jacket
holes and the adjoining cyl. with a heat gun. I then drop some dry ice
into the bottom of the piston. I whack it with a wooden drift and a
maul.
Thanks for the ideas.
John Vallely
all the parts of a '59 mga
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