If any body figures this one out, please please post the answer. My 74
Midget would continue to run when the switch was turned off. I cleaned
connections, checked wireing, ad nauseum. The only way I was able to
stop it was to replace every piece of wire in the ignition circuit, from
the solonoid, through the switch to the coil. I never found a shorted
wire, burnt insulation or crossed connection. I live in dread that one
day, when I least expect it, ........ GOTCHA!
Rick Morrison
72 MGBGT
74 Midget
On Wed, 11 Feb 1998 16:06:05 EST DANMAS@aol.com writes:
>Bob Torrens wrote:
>
>"I have a '78 MGB that refuses to stop - sometimes! The ignition key
>is
>removed and one of two things happens. Either the car continues to run
>or
>within 30 seconds after removing the key, the ignition light and
>cooling fan
>come on."
>
>To which Bob Allen replied:
>
>"Have your alternator checked. Leaking diode."
>
>And Art Pfenninger replied:
>
>"Bob when you say continues to run, do you mean it runs as if the
>ignition
>is still on? If so you need a diode spliced into one of the alternator
>wires. What is happening is the alternator is sending power back into
>the
>run on valve and it continues to run."
>
>Bob and Art,
>
>I'm afraid you have me stumped on this one! For the life of me, I
>can't
>figure how either of these could be the problem. When you shut off
>the engine
>in any MGB, the alternator continues to produce 12 volts for as long
>as it
>takes for the engine to coast down. The only thing that keeps this 12
>volts
>from being fed to the ignition system is the alternator warning light.
>Without the isolating function of the warning light, you would never
>be able
>to get the engine shut off. With the warning light, nothing else
>should be
>required.
>
>Since the alternator is producing 12 volts in the first instant after
>the key
>is turned off, it would not matter if the alternator diodes were
>leaking or
>not - 12 volts is 12 volts, regardless of how it came to be there.
>
>The anti-run on valve is on the opposite side of the warning lamp from
>the
>alternator, so it would not receive voltage from the alternator
>anyway.
>Besides, the anti-run on valve only shuts off the fuel, not the
>ignition.
>Even if it were to stay open, the engine would only *diesel* at worse,
>and
>would not run smoothly, nor run very long. If it were the anti-run on
>valve,
>the problem would exist in all of the later MGBs, and would have been
>there
>from the beginning.
>
>What am I missing? Is there some tricky circuitry on the later MGBs
>that I am
>overlooking?
>
>Dan Masters,
>Alcoa, TN
>
>'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
>'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion
>- see:
> http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/
>'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition, slated for a V8
>soon!
>'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
>
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