>
>Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 13:09:00 -0800
>From: Andy Ramm <<aramm@concentric.net>
>Subject: Re: Heater removal
>
>What if I don't want to remove the whole heater, but just change the
>core, is this an easy task?
>
>Andy
Andy,=20
Just saw your post. Just changing the core is not easy if I remember=
correctly. I think the front cover has a lip on it that slips over the case=
and this is then buried in the drain aperture. You may be able to get away=
with opening the front cover enough to remove & replace the core. So give=
it a shot, it can't be any worse than rebuilding the rear end you just did!=
=20
I would get myself some foam sealing strips to replace the ones inside the=
heater. They seal the core so the air passes through instead of around,=
(max heat transfer). When you get it apart, you will see what I am=
referring to.
Remove the hoses then remove the spring clips that hold the front cover to=
the main case, I believe there are five. One hides away at the bottom left=
as you look from the radiator. Without having a heater in front of me, I=
think you may need to remove the 3 or 4 screws that attach the heater front=
lower edge to the body/fire wall area, just behind the engine. You should=
probably remove the fan motor before you attempt to get the cover apart, it=
will assist in the handling of the front plate. With the screws and clips=
removed I think you should be able to open things up far enough to get the=
core out. You know you may be better off removing the whole thing, that way=
you will be able to get the air control box refurbished. The felt covering=
to the movable vane comes away from the vane as the adhesive has surely=
dried out and broken loose. I warn you this is not for the faint hearted.=
It is a SOB to get that assembly out of the body. If you decide to do this,=
go into the passenger foot well and locate the heater vent, remove the=
plastic deflector so you can see the locking screw for the air control=
cable. Remove the screw that anchors the inner cable and then the bolt the=
anchors the outer cable clamp. Then pull the cable out of the heater so as=
to remove a major source of aggravation when attempting to pull the heater=
box out. Now, I think you may need to remove the two face level vent hoses=
that disappear into the fire wall behind the radio. You know, the more I=
talk you through this the more I remember what a pain this was. Hey, Good=
luck, you will need it. I just remember one more part that will be trash=
when and if you take the heater box out. There is a moulded foam piece that=
those two vent hoses insert into.
It is attached to the lower part of the heater assembly on the rear of the=
air control vane assembly. The bowden cable that I suggested you remove=
passes through the foam. You will probably need to replace this item, it=
costs about $20 and is worth about $1.00. Plan on a whole weekend for the=
complete job. If you need more hints, let me know! John.=20
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E-mail <color><param>0000,0000,ffff</param>jdb70@juts.ccc.amdahl.com=20
</color>John Bartholomew Amdahl San Jose CA.
** 408-746-6361 07:00-16:00 PST. ** USUAL DISCAILMERS APPLY **
1969 MGBGT;1973 MGB;1974 MGB;1976 MGB;1979 MGB; 1972MGB daily driver.
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