Art Pfenninger wrote:
>
> I'll give the auto parts store a try. I know the VW switch looks
> the same but the threads are metric. I have put three switches in in three
> years. Always the same problem, it will work when first installed but then
> someone will tell me my brakes lights don't work. If I press really hard
> on the pedal they will light, otherwise nothing.
> ...Art
>
> On Sat, 1 Nov 1997 ejrussell@sprynet.com wrote:
>
> > On Sat, 1 Nov 1997, Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU> wrote:
> > > Any idea of what car the replacement brake light switch might be
> > >from, I'd like to try a switch that lasts at least a year.
> > >...Art
> > >
> > >On Fri, 31 Oct 1997 ejrussell@sprynet.com wrote:
> >
> > >> Check the hydraulic brake light switch under the hood (bonnet). They
> > >>don't last forever. If you have 12 volts going into the switch (ignition
>ON)
> > >>connect the two wires at the switch together (temporarily). If the brake
> > >>lights are now on (ignition ON) the circuit is OK and the switch is bad.
>It is
> > >>a standard US thread, I get replacements locally. I think the original has
> > >>small screws to attach the wires, I made short jumpers to adapt to what I
> > >>bought locally...
> >
> > Art, I don't know what car the switch is from but it must be a standard
> > design. I brought the failed original to my (very helpful) local auto supply
> > store. They glanced at it, pulled one off the shelf and I was all set. The
>only
> > difference is that the original has two screw terminals and the replacement
>has
> > two bullet connectors. (Or is visa-versa?) I made two short jumpers to
>adapt the
> > MGA harness to the replacement switch. The one in my spare parts bin now is:
> > BORG-WARNER # S-194 I don't understand why they don't last very long, I get
> > leary after a couple of years. I recall reading someone's opinion that
>silicome
> > brake fluid (which I have used for 10+ years) somehow shortens the life of
>these
> > switches which I don't understand. I have found that quickly changing the
>switch
> > causes only a tiny loss of brake fluid and no air gets in the line. I have
> > wondered whether the position of the switch (contacts up) leaves a small air
> > bubble inside the switch allowing it to deteriorate somehow...? I have had
>the
> > same style switch in my '41 Chevy truck for 4-5 years with no trouble. It is
> > mounted horizontally, my theory is that the brake fluid (also silicone) can
> > somehow get all the way inside therefore it is surviving. Does that make any
> > sense? Perhaps you could test this theory for us by rolling your car onto
>its
> > side when you replace the switch!! Maybe the MG just prefers to keep the
>Lucas
> > heritage alive!
> > Did you know that the Queen knighted Mr Lucas for his invention of
> > intermittent windshield wipers? They conveniently neglected to mention his
> > earlier inventions: intermittent headlights, intermittent ignition, etc!!
> >
> > Eric
> > Bridgewater, MA
> > <ejrussell@sprynet.com>
> >
I replaced my switch 2 years ago on my TD. I found that the switch had
corroded over the opening. I removed the switch and cleaned it and
replaced it and all was well. I do not use silicone fluid. I did
purchase a new switch just in case however.
Steve
52 TD
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