Dan,=0D
you must have a wire wheel car. For those the removal is a little diffe=
rent.=20
You must pull on the stud without damaging the threads to remove the gre=
ase
cap (the stud you see is attached to the end of the grease cap). My
recollection is that this stud is 7/16 NF. Get a nut started on the end=
of
the stud, grab the nut with some pliers from the end, pull straight out =
while
rocking a bit from side to side. Once the grease cap is out you will se=
e the
split pin. Rotate your splined hub until a small hole in the splines (u=
sually
full of old grease) is aligned with the end of the split pin. Reach thr=
ough
the hole with needle nose pliers and pull the split pin out. You can th=
en
remove the nut (seems like this takes a 1 1/8 socket) and proceed to rem=
ove
the hub from the spindle. Reassembly is the reverse of the above.=0D
=0D
Bill=0D
=0D
>-- [ From: Dan Henson * EMC.Ver #2.5.3 ] --=0D
>=0D
>=0D
> OK fellow listers, it is time to replace brake pads on my '69 'B=0D=
>roadster. I want to do it right and also replace the rotors or have=0D=
>them turned but I cannot figure how to get them off! The manual refers=
=0D
>to a split pin but I have what appears to be a grease cap with a=0D
>threaded stud sticking out about 1/2". How do I get to the famous=0D=
>castellated nut? =0D
>=0D
> And also is there a generic brake bleeder screw that the local auto=
=0D
>shop would have? Mine are badly rounded and in need of replacement. =
=0D
>Why are they made of such soft metal anyway?=0D
>=0D
> Thanks, Dan in NC=0D
=0D
=0D
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