Hi Roger,
The test for the switch is to clip an ohmmeter across its terminals,
observe the reading, then step on the brake hard and again note the
reading. If the switch is OK, the reading will jump to show very low
resistance.
Conveniently, the switch is under the floor on the driver side. It's
the little gadget with wires that's in the hydraulic line. Commonly, if
the switch doesn't work, there is some crud in the hydraulic section of
the switch.
Have you checked that the wire from the switch to the brakelight
sockets is OK? Have you tested the brake filament in both bulbs?
Now, I have a question for you. My brakelights stay ON. Thought it was
a bad switch. $25 later, found that either the new switch was DOA, or the
old switch was OK and there's another problem. Thought it might be the
master cylinder retaining some slight pressure in the brakeline. Have
bought the rebuild kit but haven't yet rebuilt, as the brakes don't seem
warm to the touch and the switch takes a fair amount of pressure on the
pedal to activate the lights. Ideas?
Bob
On Sat, 27 Sep 1997 23:41:08 -0700 Roger Wilt <rdwilt@pol.net> writes:
>After a quick 9 holes at the local links, I was on my way home when
>the
>car beside me says "Hey, nice car! Do you know you don't have brake
>lights?" Argggg!!! I have turn signals, running lights, and all other
>accessories work fine. I checked/cleaned the ground by the left rear
>damper. I think the brake light switch gave up the ghost. Anyone know
>how to test it or do you just ASSUME that's the problem at this point
>and get a new one?
>(Can I get one locally?)
>Thanks in advance!
>Roger
>51 TD
>Columbus Ohio
>
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