A vacuum gauge will tell you if you have sticking valves. If you
do try Marvil (sp) Mystery Oil. It really does work
..Art
On 9 Sep 1997, A. B. Bonds wrote:
> About two years ago I though I'd do my '52 TD a big favor and have the
> head rebuilt. Among other things, compression was spotty and there
> was a lot of oil going down the valve guides. Among other candy, I
> laid in some hardened seats and Moss' finest silicon bronze guides....
>
> It worked a treat for a while, but after last winter's layover the
> engine has become balky. Rough idle and really crappy acceleration.
> It can hit about 4500 rpm without load (briefly...) but can barely
> make it down the driveway and back when moving. I naturally have
> checked the SUs and ignition assiduously, replaced coil, points,
> rotor, double-checked plug gaps, point gap and timing. Proximate,
> but no panatela.
>
> So then I read with deepening anxiety about the problem with sticky
> silicon bronze valve guides. What are the symptoms, exactly? Is it
> possible to determine that this is the cause of my misfortune without
> yanking the head? I'd really feel silly to go to that trouble for no
> reason. And if this is the problem, what is the preferred remedy?
> Honing or reaming or?
>
> A. B. "But I really meant well" Bonds
>
>
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