Bob, actually the bulb itself doesn't have to work. Larry gave a
good starting point considering that the socket is activated by a switch.
A paracitic drain can be caused by a faulty socket. Unless you are able to
first determine that there is drain and second isolate the area where the
drain is comming from what other option do you have? Take it to a shop and
pay the $40 and hour to perform the same test Larry suggested? Just a
thought no flames intended.
...Art
On Fri, 11 Jul 1997, Robert Allen wrote:
> Does anybody else get tired of hearing from all of these anal-retentive types
> that 1) have a car so perfect that their courtesy lights actually work and 2)
> really think we give a shit if we know that they know how to chase down
> courtesty light malfunctions? #8^}]o===
>
> Larry J. Dickstein wrote:
>
> > Dan-
> > The first place I would look is the trunk/boot light. If it has
> > popped out of it's socket, it will stay on all the time. Presto- in no
> > time your battery will be TU. This is not unusual. The hi tech way
> > would be to get your multimeter out and disconnect the ground cable from
> > the battery. Then put one lead on the negative terminal on the battery
> > and the black lead on the ground cable. In other words, make the
> > multimeter part of the circuit. If you are showing a current flow w/
> > everything "shut off" you have a leak somewhere. Start finding the leak
> > by pulling one fuse at a time and see where the leak stops. Then you are
> > on your own. Make sure the doors are shut or you will run yourself nuts
> > trying to find the leak. Remember the interior light.
> > My money is on the trunk light switch!!
> >
>
>
> --
> Bob Allen, Kansas City, '69CGT, '75TR6, '61Elva(?)
> "If all the blondes riding in Corvettes were laid end-to-end, I wouldn't be at
> all surprised."
>
>
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