At 11:26 PM 6/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
> Now that it's fixed, I am spending a lot more time
>noticing it and thinking about it. One thing I do notice
>now is that it runs very hot. Nothing noticeable
>on the front, but if I put my finger up behind the
>dash parts of the switch body are uncomfortably
>hot. The electrical tape I used to seal the job
>is a little warm and soft.
>
> Is this normal for this type of switch? Can anyone
>verify theirs as running hot or cold?
>
>--
>Trevor Boicey
===Reply===
Trevor: You didn't mention what types of headlights you're using. If
they're higher wattage than was stock (35 watts low beam, 50 watts high, I
think), such as modern halogens frequently are, the switch and wiring will
be warmer than normal. In any event, when you run any current through a
wire, it will heat up. How much it heats up is a factor of how much current
you put through it. Your lighting switch carries all the current for the
head lights, front marker lights, side lights (if you have them), tail
lights, licence plate lights and dash lights. No wonder the poor thing is
sweating.
The best suggestion I've seen here is to run your headlights (high and low
beams) through relays. You can buy relays inexpensively at any auto parts
store. Use heavy-gauge wiring from the hot lead of your battery, WITH AN
IN-LINE FUSE(!) close to the battery, and use the wiring from the switch to
switch the relay. This will save the factory harness much stress, and may
make your lights a little brighter, since those poor electrons won't have so
much Lucas to struggle through.
Mark Moburg
MarkMoburg@mindspring.com
New York, New York
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