>Ok, here is how it all started. I pulled the distributor out of my car
>about a month ago to replace the cap, points, etc.
Very *bad* mistake. But I guess you've learned about pulling the distributor
by now haven't you? <g>
Sounds like timing, including reinstallation being done incorrectly. How
you're determining timing
without seeing timing marks is beyond me. But it doesn't seem to be working
well. I don't know the
timing marks on your engine, but I have a very hard time believing they are
truly gone. Maybe dirty,
needing some chalk to see well, but completely gone?...
Anyhow, when I'm stuck with an engine that is distributorless or totally
screwed up, here is my basic
drill.
Get the manual! That's important.
Get the #1 cylinder up to top dead center on the compression stroke. You can
do this best with the
spark plugs all removed, and the valve cover off. With a nice tool (like a
screwdriver) you can drop
the shaft down the spark plug hole of the #1 cylinder and feel when the piston
is coming up to top.
You want all the plugs out so that you can turn the engine by hand pulling on a
belt. You don't want
the starter motor used with screw drivers down the cylinders! Now, watch the
rocker arms to that
cylinder, see if you are top dead center (roughly) with the valves closed
(compression) or the valves
opening (ending exhaust, begining intake). Get it to the compression stroke.
Now, get it top dead
center, erring on the before side if you have to. This really is pretty easy.
You can now probably find those elusive timing marks. For they will be lined
up now, or closely so.
Clean them and find the proper marks if possible. This really isn't critical,
but it helps a whole
lot. If you've got them found, set the timing without the distributor. As in
rotate the crank until
you are lined up for the idle position.
Now, look at your distributor and manual, and see which line on the cap points
to the #1 cylinder.
Rotate the distributor shaft so that the rotor would be pointing to it.
Install the distributor.
Now that the distributor is in there, it will have turned some. Rotate the
unit until the rotor is
again pointing right at where the #1 line would be. Can you do this? If not,
or if it looks way out
of wack, remove the distributor, turn the shaft a bit, and reinstall.
Eventually, you will get to where you have the distributor on the engine in a
normal position, the
rotor pointing at the #1 plug connection, and the points just opening. Or some
reasonable facimily
thereof.
Now you would do a normal timing drill, as well point gap.
Now those points. I don't follow what you're saying you did with the light.
The easiest way to see
if the points are working is to hold the spark plug line out of the coil near
something, and them
open and close the points with a wooden piece. As the points open, a spark
should jump from the
coil. If not, something is wrong.
It's been a while since I've played with points. Lessee, as I recall you've
got two designs with
points. One design has one side grounded (usually the stationary side), the
other going to the
ground side of the coil. The other side of the coil is hot coming from your
ignition switch. When
the points close, the juice comes through the coil, building the field. When
it opens, the juice is
blocked, and the field colapses, giving you spark. The other system had the
points on the hot leg.
With one side going to the ignition switch, and the other to the coil. Same
effect in operation
though.
If you're doing all this without proper tools, gap the points with a match book
cover, not folded
over. Just the flap. That'll get you running, and reasonably close to right.
Then with all this you should have the car running. If you are still without
tools, don't be afraid
to loosen the distributor and rotate it both directions to get the engine to
run well. Don't be
afraid to do that even if you are using a light. Just with the light you have
numbers to play with.
But you still turn it to and froe finding the timing your engine likes best.
This should get you
running.
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