In response to the several notes posted during the past week:
K&N FILTERS: I always assumed that because they offered less
restriction to the air coming through (therefore less vacuum at the jet?),
that leaner needles were necessary. The spring loaded needles called for
are AAA, but I do not have the specs handy.
GEARBOX 90 DEGREE DRIVE: These were fitted on all the non
overdrive MGBs. Because of their high cost ($75?) we simply remove them
and fit an overdrive cable, ensuring that the radius of the cable at the
bottom is as large as possible.
STUCK STARTER MOTOR: All MGs but the MGB 68-> & MGC use a crash
type starter. Because the engine always shuts off with the pistons about
horizontal, wear occurs on the flywheel in two spots, 180 degrees apart.
Eventually the wear on these teeth becomes so great that the starter pinion
fails to engage the flywheel teeth but "climbs" onto them. The EASIEST way
to solve the immediate problem is to push the car BACKWARDS while in
FOURTH, ignition off, of course. Pushing it forwards makes the problem
worse. The only real solution is to replace the ring gear. This is true
from TC -> Midget 1500.
1974 MGB OD SPEEDO CABLE: If the speedo is NOT working, start at
the gearbox. Does the pinion gear move when you rotate the drive shaft?
Does the speedo cable transfer this rotation? The most common problem is
that the driving or driven gear is wiped clean of teeth. Too bad. Pinion
gears are HARD to find; the driving gear requires OD disassembly (engine
out!). A frozen speedo can cause the gears to strip. The easiest problem
is that the diamond made by the end of the cable (years ago it was squared)
is too small and the cable just freewheels inside the square on the end of
the gear. Use a dolly and hammer and make the diamond just a little longer.
MGA RADIO ANTENNA (or is that an aerial?): They were often fixed
at the REAR of the vehicle during that time, and swept rearwards, as though
not to disturb the aerodynamics.
WEBER INSTALLATION to FIT BRAKE SERVO: It is possible to fit a
remote servo on either single or dual circuit brakes. This was common on
the home models which didn't have dual circuit brakes until about 1977(?!).
The Lockheed servo fits nicely on the right bulkhead. Both thin chrome
filters (were "Hellings") or the hemispherical style can be fitted with
dual SUs.
MODERN RADIO IN + EARTH MG: The easiest way out is to convert the
MG to negative earth. Three steps: reverse the battery(ies); polarise the
dynamo; reverse the coil leads. That's it! The next easiest is with the
"voltage converter" which supplies 24volts+. The difference in voltage
between the 24v+ and the 12v+ earth is 12 volts. The next (and a dangerous
way) is to attempt isolation. My positive earth MGA does not have a radio.
The sound of the engine is music enough to my ears. And, you can always
wear a walkman.
VACUUM LEAKS: A high pitched whistle, evident at idle and on
deceleration is a textbook case of a vacuum leak. Find this leak with an
aerosol -- carb cleaner eg by spraying between the head and manifold, mani-
fold and spacers, spacers and carburetter, all manifold takeoff lines, at
the brake master cylinder (MGB 75->).
DAMPER OIL: The oil used in the CARBURETTER DAMPERS is engine oil
- we use 20/50; the oil used in the SHOCKS is hydraulic oil with a seal
sweller and an anti-foaming agent - original was about 20 weight, we use
50. One trick is to remove the shock from the car, drain it, refill it
with this stiff fluid and WOW, it'll grip the road like a limpet (catfood).
TORQUE STEERING: All Midgets have torque steering to some degree,
few of the other MGs have it. The loose rear axle steers the MG from the
rear -- just like a highlow. Tightening the U bolts usually takes care of
the problem - BUT, the U bolts are often too rusty to simply tighten. So,
remove one nut at a time, stack four 3/8 flat washers under the nut, and
draw the nut up to its original location.
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