My 2 cents worth on the painting issue. I've got a compressor. So I
borrowed a full sized paint gun from a friend without a compressor
several years ago and I have painted several used cars for my children
and friend in the front driveway. The big gun was really hard to keep
under control. So about a year ago I bought one of the little "touch
up" guns. It's spray patteren is not much bigger than a can of
Rust-O-Leum and the can holds about 6-8 ozs of paint, but I mix the paint
and catalyst in a measuring pitcher in small amounts and paint to my
hearts content. I've very satisfied with it as a "hobby painter."
Dwade
three 78 B's
On Wed, 16 Oct 1996, W. R. Gibbons wrote:
> On Tue, 15 Oct 1996, Robert J Donahue/DELCO wrote:
>
> > >> 53 MG-TD, under DIY restoration (painting with aerosol Rust-Oleum)
> > >
> > >How's it coming? I have plans to Rust-Oleum my 'B, after I find all of
> > >the sheetmetal panels I need. Gloss Enamel, I'm assuming? Does the
> > >Rust-Oleum look decent?
> > >
>
> > It's looking pretty good so far. I'm doing one panel at a time which
> > I think helps when using spray cans. The bigger the area, the harder
> > it is to get a good smooth coat without runs or overspray. I know the
> > B can't be disassembled like the TD, but maybe by masking up to the
> > seams it can be painted one area at a time. One thing I've found with
> > the spray cans is that each pass must be adjacent to a pass that is still
> > quit wet. If you wait too long or go back to an old area, the overspray
> > won't completely "melt" into the old pass. This results in areas that
> > are dull. This is way large pieces like the TD wings are harder to do.
>
> > I have a question about enamel for the group. Can a dull area be made
> > glossy by polishing or buffing, or do these techniques only apply
> > to lacquer paint? If polishing works, what kind of compound should I
> > buy?
>
> I doubt it, unless you would be satisfied with a satin finish. Buffing
> works with laquer and with catalyzed enamel. Once you sand the skin of
> rustoleum, I seriously doubt you can restore much gloss by buffing.
>
> > Also, does anybody with experience with Rust-Oleum gloss enamel have
> > any opinions on how it will hold up compared to regular automotive paint?
>
> It will probably stay on and protect the metal, but the gloss is not
> likely to last long. I used semigloss rustoleum on a lot of suspension
> parts, and it has held up well. It is dull, but it's supposed to be.
>
> >
> > Any painting advice in general would be greatly appreciated.
>
> You have probably already learned by now that you must follow rustoleum
> label instructions regarding recoating. Either recoat within a short
> time, or wait several days--otherwise the paint will wrinkle. Bizarre,
> isn't it, paint that can't easily be used over itself.
>
> I personally would not think the savings are worth the trouble and the
> chance you will reduce the value of the car and/or not find the result
> pleasing. I'd invest in a compressor and spray equipment, or else have a
> professional paint the car. The finish will be far better and far more
> durible.
>
> Ray
>
> Ray Gibbons Dept. of Molecular Physiology & Biophysics
> Univ. of Vermont College of Medicine, Burlington, VT
> gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu (802) 656-8910
>
>
|