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To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: New Subscriber
From: Stuart MacMIllan <scotsman@halcyon.com>
Date: Sat, 4 May 96 13:33:41 -0000

Hello from Seattle to my fellow MG addicts!

By way of introduction, I am a long time MGB owner, a chemist by 
education, and a vehcicle consultant (buyer's agent) by avocation.  My 
current profession is the end result of "cars on the brain" syndrome.  I 
help people buy cars at wholesale prices and represent their interests.  
I also teach classes on maintenance and car buying at the local adult 
education center.  Any of you are welcome to contact me for pricing and 
advice on anything except buying MGs (no charge!)  

Anyway, I have enjoyed reading the digest for the last couple of months, 
and I thought I might as well jump in and add to the west coast 
contingent, since this list seems to be dominated by easterners, or am I 
mistaken?

What follows are musings, comments and stuff I just want to get off my 
chest. My future postings won't be this long, I promise, since I will be 
spending my time in the garage!

I've owned and driven my 1965 British Racing Green roadster since 1969.  
In 1971 I rebuilt the engine and replaced the transmission with a '67 O/D 
version that I also rebuilt. Except for a five year period in the 80's 
for a body and interior restoration, it has been driven daily.  I have 
learned a lot in the 27 years I have lived with this car, but I still 
purchased a '68 to restore with my son and an early '74 GT to restore for 
(and with?) my wife.  It's a serious affliction.  (Chrome bumpers 
forever!)

I just had a client who wanted a Miata; I tried to talk him into buying a 
nice '68 B that was for sale down the street from me, but he wanted the 
Miata.  I was surprised to see a list price of over $27,000 for this car, 
but I was able to save him over $4000.  I still think the MG was a much 
better deal.

If I wanted a modern roadster, I would get an MGF for the simple reason 
it does not have air bags, being designed by "hairy chested" Brits.  Air 
bags can cost thousands to replace if they deploy, and this can result in 
insurance companies not covering the cost.  If the $2500 to $5000 cost of 
replacement plus the cost of repairs exceeds the market value of the car, 
it will be "totalled," and you will be responsible for the difference!  
(Get "gap" insurance if you lease.)  

Regarding transmission oil, I have used Red Line MTL in my 65's O/D 
tranny for about 35,000 miles now, and I am a beleiver in this product-I 
use it in all my cars.  Shifting is easier and there are no problems with 
the O/D.  This box now has 96,000 miles on it and no noises or problems.  
Red Line MTL is a full synthetic oil designed for transmissions and 
transaxels that use ATF or motor oil, and has the properties necessary 
for good synchro engagement.  I will be replacing the clutch next winter, 
and I plan to pull the layshaft out and inspect it for wear.  I'll let 
you know how bad it is!  (I am not affilitated with Red Line, so I am 
only offering this info as my personal experience.)

The fellow with the shredded front transmission bearing shim may have 
some problems.  This shim is installed to set the clearance between the 
input shaft bearing and the front cover.  Shredding indicates that this 
bearing has been spinning in the case, possibly damaging it.  (If a new 
bearing is a tight fit the case is probably okay, use some Loctite red 
stud and bearing glue.)  The shims are available from Moss and VB in 
various sizes-order several in different sizes.  The "book" says to 
measure the required shim thickness indirectly with a dial indicator (tap 
in the bearing to make sure it is seated).  I have done this, but have 
had better luck guessing at shims and using plastigage of the proper 
range.  Bolt up the cover with gasket and disassemble to measure 
plastigage.  Repeat with more or fewer shims until clearance is correct.  
This takes longer but is more accurate.  (Anyone who has rebuilt an 
engine knows what plastigage is, and can explain its use.) 

Regarding the oil for shock absorbers, I've used hydraulic jack oil since 
day one.  It is the right viscosity and cheap, which is the only thing 
that makes sense the way they leak.  By the way, does everybody know how 
to bleed these things?  I jack up the car, top up the shock using an old 
fashioned oil can, lower the car, bounce it up and down a couple of 
times, jack it up, top it off again and replace the plug.  If your MG is 
bouncing up and down as you drive, you need to bleed your shocks.

For the person who is installing the drive shaft:  Yes, you can simply 
unbolt the flanges and remove the shaft.  Jack up the rear car and 
support it under the rear axel and the shaft will clear the cross-member. 
(BLOCK THE FRONT WHEELS AND USE JACK STANDS!)

My two cents on engine oil:  I have used everything from straight 30wt, 
10w40, 20w50 to 5w50 Castrol Syntek in my B.  All seem to work fine. This 
engine has 96,000 miles on it (rebuilt head last summer) and oil pressure 
is still 80/25 (even with the sythetic), the same as when newly rebuilt 
in 1971.  My personal belief is that any name brand oil is fine, as long 
as you change it regularly, (at least twice a year).  

By the way, I also feel you should be using a detergent oil, even in very 
early cars, after you have rebuilt the engine.  Detergents suspend the 
crud produced by the combustion process so it can be drained out with the 
used oil.  Without detergent, the crud builds up on the internal engine 
surfaces.  This stuff will slough off and clog things up if you add 
detergent oil to an old engine, so don't switch to detergent oil until 
you do a rebuild.

The physical (actual) viscosity of a 20w50 is thicker than that of a 
synthetic 5w/50, since these numbers only reflect the "effective" 
viscosity that is extended by additives and the quality of the base stock 
over a temperature range .  A physically thicker oil will allow for 
higher oil pressure in an older engine that may have higher bearing 
clearances.  Monitor your engine's oil pressure, and as it decreases with 
age switch to thicker oils, up to a straight 30wt.

I have also rebuilt eight engines over the years, including two MGBs, 
hand have researched the literature to glean information on break-in 
procedures.  Rings do need to "wear in" during the first 500 to 1000 
miles to seal properly.  This is why the cyliner walls are left with a 
rough honing on the surface to hold oil during this process.  It is 
critical to avoid prolonged constant speed driving during this period 
because the cylinder walls do not get adiquate oil for proper break-in.  
Varying the speed frequently for the first 500 miles of driving is 
important.  In fact, one book suggests with a new or rebuilt engine that 
you find a hill and accelerate up the hill, turn around and coast down.  
Repeat ten times and you will have begun the break-in process properly. 
The purpose of this and varying speed between 45 and 65mph on the freeway 
is the same, the high compression load of acceleration forces the rings 
into the cylinder walls, and the high vacuum of coasting sucks oil up 
unto the cylinders for extra lubrication. 

Do not use synthetics for the first 5000 miles, they do lubricate too 
well to allow for proper seating of new rings.  After 5000 miles the 
engine is completly broken in.

Regarding SU carburetor dashpot oil:  20wt motor oil is still available, 
I get mine from the local NAPA store; their house brand for about a 
dollar a quart.  It is absurd to pay $7.00 for a few ounces of Penrite 
oil as sold by some suppliers. I have measured the physical viscosity of 
various oils (including Penrite).  10w/40 is okay if you can't find 20wt, 
but ATF is thinner and will be expelled out the damper vent holes in 
great red gobs.  Thicker oils will prevent the proper enriching of the 
mixture as you accelerate, robbing you of power!

I'll share one last bizarre lesson I've learned regarding intermittent 
stalling.  Electricals should be checked first, including broken wires 
and corroded connectors, but when this problem happened to a friend of 
mine a few years ago we finally determined that it was a fuel problem. It 
turned out that back during the gas shortage in the 70's, someone had 
siphoned gas from his '71 GT and stuffed the surgical rubber hose they 
were using down into the tank.  It took about 15 years, but that rubber 
turned into a bunch of gelatinous globs that would plug the fuel pick-up. 
 After waiting for a few minutes, the pick-up would clear and you could 
drive for days until the next one got sucked up. It took us about six 
months to figure this one out.  (He had to replace the tank.)

For anyone who actually reads this screed (at least the UNABOMBER 
contributed to our vocabulary) and can guess my age, I'll send you a 
photocopy of the original "Car and Driver" reviews of the MGB and MGB-GT 
from 1962 and 1966, respectively. They were the cover stories and I'll 
copy the cover too! (Of course, I will get written permission from "Car 
and Driver".)

Cheers, Safety Fast (or any way you can get it except air bags!)

Anybody using this information does so at their own risk!

 

Stuart MacMillan,
Vehicle Consultant
"Talk to me before you buy your next car!"
scotsman@halcyon.com
Seattle


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