Hello from Seattle to my fellow MG addicts!
By way of introduction, I am a long time MGB owner, a chemist by
education, and a vehcicle consultant (buyer's agent) by avocation. My
current profession is the end result of "cars on the brain" syndrome. I
help people buy cars at wholesale prices and represent their interests.
I also teach classes on maintenance and car buying at the local adult
education center. Any of you are welcome to contact me for pricing and
advice on anything except buying MGs (no charge!)
Anyway, I have enjoyed reading the digest for the last couple of months,
and I thought I might as well jump in and add to the west coast
contingent, since this list seems to be dominated by easterners, or am I
mistaken?
What follows are musings, comments and stuff I just want to get off my
chest. My future postings won't be this long, I promise, since I will be
spending my time in the garage!
I've owned and driven my 1965 British Racing Green roadster since 1969.
In 1971 I rebuilt the engine and replaced the transmission with a '67 O/D
version that I also rebuilt. Except for a five year period in the 80's
for a body and interior restoration, it has been driven daily. I have
learned a lot in the 27 years I have lived with this car, but I still
purchased a '68 to restore with my son and an early '74 GT to restore for
(and with?) my wife. It's a serious affliction. (Chrome bumpers
forever!)
I just had a client who wanted a Miata; I tried to talk him into buying a
nice '68 B that was for sale down the street from me, but he wanted the
Miata. I was surprised to see a list price of over $27,000 for this car,
but I was able to save him over $4000. I still think the MG was a much
better deal.
If I wanted a modern roadster, I would get an MGF for the simple reason
it does not have air bags, being designed by "hairy chested" Brits. Air
bags can cost thousands to replace if they deploy, and this can result in
insurance companies not covering the cost. If the $2500 to $5000 cost of
replacement plus the cost of repairs exceeds the market value of the car,
it will be "totalled," and you will be responsible for the difference!
(Get "gap" insurance if you lease.)
Regarding transmission oil, I have used Red Line MTL in my 65's O/D
tranny for about 35,000 miles now, and I am a beleiver in this product-I
use it in all my cars. Shifting is easier and there are no problems with
the O/D. This box now has 96,000 miles on it and no noises or problems.
Red Line MTL is a full synthetic oil designed for transmissions and
transaxels that use ATF or motor oil, and has the properties necessary
for good synchro engagement. I will be replacing the clutch next winter,
and I plan to pull the layshaft out and inspect it for wear. I'll let
you know how bad it is! (I am not affilitated with Red Line, so I am
only offering this info as my personal experience.)
The fellow with the shredded front transmission bearing shim may have
some problems. This shim is installed to set the clearance between the
input shaft bearing and the front cover. Shredding indicates that this
bearing has been spinning in the case, possibly damaging it. (If a new
bearing is a tight fit the case is probably okay, use some Loctite red
stud and bearing glue.) The shims are available from Moss and VB in
various sizes-order several in different sizes. The "book" says to
measure the required shim thickness indirectly with a dial indicator (tap
in the bearing to make sure it is seated). I have done this, but have
had better luck guessing at shims and using plastigage of the proper
range. Bolt up the cover with gasket and disassemble to measure
plastigage. Repeat with more or fewer shims until clearance is correct.
This takes longer but is more accurate. (Anyone who has rebuilt an
engine knows what plastigage is, and can explain its use.)
Regarding the oil for shock absorbers, I've used hydraulic jack oil since
day one. It is the right viscosity and cheap, which is the only thing
that makes sense the way they leak. By the way, does everybody know how
to bleed these things? I jack up the car, top up the shock using an old
fashioned oil can, lower the car, bounce it up and down a couple of
times, jack it up, top it off again and replace the plug. If your MG is
bouncing up and down as you drive, you need to bleed your shocks.
For the person who is installing the drive shaft: Yes, you can simply
unbolt the flanges and remove the shaft. Jack up the rear car and
support it under the rear axel and the shaft will clear the cross-member.
(BLOCK THE FRONT WHEELS AND USE JACK STANDS!)
My two cents on engine oil: I have used everything from straight 30wt,
10w40, 20w50 to 5w50 Castrol Syntek in my B. All seem to work fine. This
engine has 96,000 miles on it (rebuilt head last summer) and oil pressure
is still 80/25 (even with the sythetic), the same as when newly rebuilt
in 1971. My personal belief is that any name brand oil is fine, as long
as you change it regularly, (at least twice a year).
By the way, I also feel you should be using a detergent oil, even in very
early cars, after you have rebuilt the engine. Detergents suspend the
crud produced by the combustion process so it can be drained out with the
used oil. Without detergent, the crud builds up on the internal engine
surfaces. This stuff will slough off and clog things up if you add
detergent oil to an old engine, so don't switch to detergent oil until
you do a rebuild.
The physical (actual) viscosity of a 20w50 is thicker than that of a
synthetic 5w/50, since these numbers only reflect the "effective"
viscosity that is extended by additives and the quality of the base stock
over a temperature range . A physically thicker oil will allow for
higher oil pressure in an older engine that may have higher bearing
clearances. Monitor your engine's oil pressure, and as it decreases with
age switch to thicker oils, up to a straight 30wt.
I have also rebuilt eight engines over the years, including two MGBs,
hand have researched the literature to glean information on break-in
procedures. Rings do need to "wear in" during the first 500 to 1000
miles to seal properly. This is why the cyliner walls are left with a
rough honing on the surface to hold oil during this process. It is
critical to avoid prolonged constant speed driving during this period
because the cylinder walls do not get adiquate oil for proper break-in.
Varying the speed frequently for the first 500 miles of driving is
important. In fact, one book suggests with a new or rebuilt engine that
you find a hill and accelerate up the hill, turn around and coast down.
Repeat ten times and you will have begun the break-in process properly.
The purpose of this and varying speed between 45 and 65mph on the freeway
is the same, the high compression load of acceleration forces the rings
into the cylinder walls, and the high vacuum of coasting sucks oil up
unto the cylinders for extra lubrication.
Do not use synthetics for the first 5000 miles, they do lubricate too
well to allow for proper seating of new rings. After 5000 miles the
engine is completly broken in.
Regarding SU carburetor dashpot oil: 20wt motor oil is still available,
I get mine from the local NAPA store; their house brand for about a
dollar a quart. It is absurd to pay $7.00 for a few ounces of Penrite
oil as sold by some suppliers. I have measured the physical viscosity of
various oils (including Penrite). 10w/40 is okay if you can't find 20wt,
but ATF is thinner and will be expelled out the damper vent holes in
great red gobs. Thicker oils will prevent the proper enriching of the
mixture as you accelerate, robbing you of power!
I'll share one last bizarre lesson I've learned regarding intermittent
stalling. Electricals should be checked first, including broken wires
and corroded connectors, but when this problem happened to a friend of
mine a few years ago we finally determined that it was a fuel problem. It
turned out that back during the gas shortage in the 70's, someone had
siphoned gas from his '71 GT and stuffed the surgical rubber hose they
were using down into the tank. It took about 15 years, but that rubber
turned into a bunch of gelatinous globs that would plug the fuel pick-up.
After waiting for a few minutes, the pick-up would clear and you could
drive for days until the next one got sucked up. It took us about six
months to figure this one out. (He had to replace the tank.)
For anyone who actually reads this screed (at least the UNABOMBER
contributed to our vocabulary) and can guess my age, I'll send you a
photocopy of the original "Car and Driver" reviews of the MGB and MGB-GT
from 1962 and 1966, respectively. They were the cover stories and I'll
copy the cover too! (Of course, I will get written permission from "Car
and Driver".)
Cheers, Safety Fast (or any way you can get it except air bags!)
Anybody using this information does so at their own risk!
Stuart MacMillan,
Vehicle Consultant
"Talk to me before you buy your next car!"
scotsman@halcyon.com
Seattle
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