First off, thanks to everybody for the advice on taking care of the rusty
floors in my B. It had been a long time since I'd prodded the list for
advice, and I'd forgotten just how freely and friendly the advice flows
around here. Youse guys and gals are the best.
Since the floors will be covered up (only rubber floormats from now on--no
carpet or foam padding to trap moisture indefinitely), I was prepared to
sacrifice prettiness for longevity. It happened that the rust-resistant
brand of paint I'd chosen came in quite a lovely shade of blue; just a touch
darker than the Tahiti blue it was covering up. I brushed on a coat of
primer, and two coats of paint. Heck, it looks so nice I'd like to do the
whole car in it if I ever find the need. In the meantime, I decided to use
it to address another minor rust problem--this time in the trunk.
I really wouldn't feel comfortable taking a wire brush into the trunk
(possibly generating some good sparks) with the fuel tank still attached, so
I motored around until the gage was below 'E' then dropped the tank. I was
stunned to find at least three gallons remaining in the tank. Oy! Such a
mess I made transferring that fuel to another car! My first guess says the
fuel gage sending unit is monkeyed (probably influenced by how conVEEEnient
it is to remove it with the tank off the car). The float's still good and
airtight. I also noticed a tiny pinhole in the tank.
[Yadda yadda yadda. You gonna ask a question, Jay, or are you just gonna
sit there and drool words on us?]
Alright, alright. Don't get yer panties in a bunch.
1. Does anybody have a preferred method of repairing such a gas-tank pinhole?
2. What's the usual range of resistance on a fuel gage sending unit? Mine
goes between 20 and 250 ohms. Haven't tested the voltage stablizer yet,
since I disconnected the battery before dropping the tank.
TIA!
--
Jay Tilton | jtilton@vt.edu | Virginia Tech
http://fbox.vt.edu:10021/J/jtilton/index.html
|