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RE: Rear Brake Adjustment

To: mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Rear Brake Adjustment
From: "REICHLE, CHRISTOPHER" <CREICHLE@nsc.msmail.miami.edu>
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 18:06:00 -0800 (PST)
When you rotate the adjuster screw, you need to turn it in half turns. The 
end of the adjuster screw has a flattened tip. So you want to turn it a half 
turn to the next flat side. Turn it  few times and you'll see what I mean. 
Leaving the adjuster screw on a non flattened side of the tip will surely 
readjust to the lower flattened point when you step on the brake.

Chris Reichle
 ----------
From: mgs-owner
To: mgs
Subject: Rear Brake Adjustment
Date: Tuesday,March 05,1996 3:02PM

Hello,

I now have the rear of my car on jack stands and I am about to bleed the
brakes.  However, I am a little curious about the adjustment on the rear
brakes.  The book (again) is not clear on this, thus neither am I.
First, why did they put a SQUARE had on the adjustment bolt... geez <g>

Second, when a spin a rear wheel (either wheel) it will make it about 1/4
away around before stopping.  I can feel the brakes barely catching and I
can hear them as well (more in certain parts of the rotation).  This is
before adjusting.  Naturally, if I tighten the bolt the wheel is locked...
however, how far should I _loosen_ the adjustment bolt??  Should the wheel
be able to spin freely until friction makes it stop or should the brakes
always be putting on a tidbit of pressure?  It doesn't take much to loosen
the bolt enough to let the wheel spin freely, but I am not sure if it
should.  I would have assumed I would be tightening the bolt, not lossining
(i.e. that the brakes would have worn down needing to be 'pulled in').

Also, in case this matters, when I loosen the bolt... the wheel will spin
freely, if I loosen it a tad more, the brakes start to catch, a little more
and they are free again, a little more and the brakes barely catch, a little
more freely and and little more they catch again????  Weird...

Maybe I am going about this all wrong... maybe I should tighten everything
up and leave the wheels locked and not take my live into my own hands <g>

Anyway... bleeding the brakes looks simple enough now that I bought a nice
little 'one man bleeding kit'.  I am not going to replace the hoses this
time around.  I know they were replaced about 5 years ago the car has had
very few miles in that time.  I think it would be best if I practised just
bleeding the brakes before taking parts off the car :-)  Besides, I am still
waiting for my MOSS catalog to arrive...

After the bleeding I will see about that annoying brake light switch... and
I will leave the wheels spinning freely unless I am warned otherwise.

Thanks for any help...
Ross (66 MGB)
//------------------------------------
// Ross A. Goldberg (aka Loki)
// http://www.computek.net/public/loki
// loki@computek.net


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