> Question: What I think I need is a new engine. A Chevy 300 someting or
>maybe a Mazda hummer. The engine must meet the following criteria. 1. Not
>screw up the smog regs. 2. Allow me to drive at altitude without any
>complaint. 3. Give me some power--I think the 1800 cc mill in the MGB is
>basically the same engine installed in the 1955 MGA--no wonder the brit car
>industry is dead. 4. Be relatively easy to install--ie with minimum frame
>modifications. Any thoughts??
Just because a design is old doesn't mean it's no good. Care to guess how
long the engine in my 85 Ford Crown Victoria has been around in one form or
another? I've always found it ironic that the Britcar industry was killed
by the US, it's biggest market. Is it any wonder that Rover doesn't want us
to have the MGF?
If you're bent on easily-installed raging power, go for the Rover 3.5-litre
conversion. Your 1980 B would require virtually no chassis mods at all,
just a mechanical transplant (check out
http://www.ipl.co.uk/MG/v8conv1.html). Plan to spend at least four grand on
this. Double that if you want anything more than a hatchet job, or if you
want an engine that's not so much a drop-in. Double again to reinforce the
chassis enough for some big-displacement Detroit iron. Doesn't sound so
good anymore, does it?
Would you believe me if I told you you could make your existing engine
breathe fire for $1500? Find somebody with an older B (you have to go back
to at least '72 for a high-compression engine) and ask him for a ride. Hard
to believe that guy's engine has anything in common with yours.
Contrary to what many belive, horses don't live in carburetors or
distributors. They live in cams and pistons. The later cam makes the
engine downright anemic. Combine that with your 8.0:1 compression ratio
(compared to 9.0:1 on older B's) and your engine is a mere shadow of what it
could be.
Don't be so anxious to toss in a different powerplant yet. You'll save
yourself sh*t-loads of money and headaches if you do the following (in the
order listed):
a) swap your cam for an older-spec one. Even better, go for a performance
cam. Compare the specs (from the Haynes manual and the Victoria British
catalog).
Inlet opens closes Exhaust opens closes
engines before 18V883: 16 deg BTDC 56 deg ABDC 51 deg BBDC 21 deg ATDC
18V883 and after: 8 " " 42 " " 54 " " 18 " "
Kent Speed Grind: 25 " " 65 " " 60 " " 30 " "
Kent Road Grind: 37 " " 69 " " 69 " " 37 " "
You'll probably also have to change some incidental things like pushrods and
valve springs, but the whole process isn't remotely as complicated as
installing a different engine. If you're concerned about emissions tests,
there exist cams specifically designed to boost engine output while
maintaining emissions requirements.
b) Install a set of high-compression pistons. No sweat. You'll have to
start using 93 octane fuel (if you don't already), and your car might have
dieseling problems, but (IMHO) that's a fair tradeoff for some extra torque.
c) As long as you're still saving money over the engine transplant, throw on
a header and free-flow exhaust system. Go for the stainless steel; you'll
be glad you did.
d) A high-voltage ignition coil couldn't hurt things. If your old Lucas
electronic ignition is spotty, get a Crane/Allison setup, too. It's a snap
to install in your 45DE4 distributor.
e) The Only thing left is the carb. Dual SU's sure would be nice, wouldn't
they? If you're feeling ambitious, check out the fuel injection article in
the latest issue of _British Car_.
After options a) and b) your car will already be quick as stink. Options c)
through e) are just icing after that. You've maintained most of your car's
originality, and you'll have saved enough time and money over an engine
transplant to buy another B!
--
Jay Tilton | vt <> Vermont. vt = Virginia Tech.
jtilton@vt.edu | .sig subject to change without notice
|