In , John M. Trindle wrote:
>Please, folks, correct any errors in this. John is ready to rebuild his
>'66 and is looking for a "fast road" configuration. I have concentrated
>on the engine and overlooked such niceties as free-flow exhaust, headers,
>bigger carbs, port-n-polish, and breakerless ignition (the last of which I
>recommend >highly<).:
Vicky Brit had a sale on Crane ignition in January, $80. I _highly_
recommend it as well. Car starts faster, idle picked up about 200
RPM. No problems with the later Smiths pulse-type tach (hooks onto
ignition coil). Stock (41419, I believe) distributor, hadda replace
the vacuum advance as old one was leaking. Timed 14 degs BTDC at 1200
RPM, vacuum disconnected and plugged.
>
>John...
>
>1) The cam. You could put in a "3/4 cam" and get some benefit. I used a
>Kent Cam with a 286 degree duration ("fast road").
I am using a reground street cam from some outfit in Seattle that is
sold by Northwest Import Parts for $65 (exch). It is close to the
Kent street cam in specs, has slightly higher lift. I can provide
detailed specs if anyone is interested. The idle has a little bite
due to some overlap, but will go reasonably at 1000 rpm. There is a
little torque lost below 2000 rpm, but the cam starts to
kick in at about 2800 rpm, and gives a good power band up to
4500, just about where you want it for street use. New followers, had
the stock rockers rebuilt by Rocker Arm Specialists (nice job!) for
something like $75. I might note that this is an 18V block with the
valve insets, required for the higher lift.
>
>2) Overbore. You'll pick up some torque here. Going over 0.040" might
>involve non-standard head gaskets, as the opening in the piston bore becomes
>smaller than the piston bore.
Mine is 0.40 overbore, uses stock gasket with no problems. Dunno
whether this is significant, done by PO no doubt to correct cheese
erosion.
>
>3) Compression.
Did not mess with this, still around 8:1, still have problems with
running on but no knock with "92 octane" gas.
>4) "Unshroud" the intake valves. The 18V block already has some
>crescents ground into it to enance flow from the intake valves.
See above.
>
>5) New rockers.
Stock rockers, see above. Extra lift is from the cam.
>7) Bigger intake valves.
I got a remanufactured head from British Parts Northwest (somewhere in
Oregon). $365, no exchange, has hardened seats and stainless exhaust
valves. The casting is the only used component. I have forgotten the
number, but it is the British/Continental model (rebuild was done
in England) for the 18V engine ('72-'74)--does not have air injection
drillings, less likely to crack, but does have bigger intake valves.
I believe this to be a good compromise without laying down some
serious cash.
The point of the post is that the engine is noticeably more spirited
than it was before the work, and the whole megillah was less than
about $600, mostly for the head (which needed work in any event). I
have no problem hitting the red line, although I have explored that
Elysium only sparingly. The rebore, done before I got the car, may
contribute, but again that is something that probably has to be done
(or has been done already) given the age of these beestes.
I am currently running a Weber DGV w/Pierce manifold. The performance
is smooth, and the Colortune says that the mixture is spot on. Plugs
are nice and tan and gas mileage is fairly good (mid 20's) even though
I flog it now and then. The HIF4's do have a bit more aggregate
capacity, and having rebuilt them I may hang them on this summer to
see what happens, but for now my cheapy road machine is painting a big
smile on my face.
A. B. Bonds
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