>From swanson@kira.ecs.umass.eduSun Mar 26 22:44:58 1995
[snip snip]
> ...I tried to eliminate problems in the ignition system, I replaced
>the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires. I set the dwell for 60
>degrees as specified, and performed the static timing ritual. No change in
>the symptoms. The way that I know it is running on #2 only - I removed all
>plug wires except for #2 and had no change in the running. If I leave
>1, 3, and 4 connected and disconnect #2 it will not run at all.
You've looked at all the things I would have. 120 sounds just a tad low
to me for the compression, but what matters most is that all cylinders
are pretty much equal.
I would suspect 2 things. First I would check the valve timing. The PO
(previous owner) may have been messing with the chain or the chain may be
loose and skipped a notch during a backfire etc. The fact that you seem
to have reasonable compression tells me that the valves are at least working.
Second, are the plugs in #1, 3 and 4 getting wet? If not then there may be
something amiss in the carbs. The SU carbs are not as bad as some people
may lead you to believe. For the most part they are simple and durable.
Make sure that when you pull on the choke, that things are not loose on
the carbs. My '70 MGB uses a pair of SU HS4s, I think your '73 may
have SU HIF4s.
Since this is your first MG, I would also strongly suggest a good manual
(although I suspect you may already have thought of this). The Haynes
manual is available most anywhere. I personally don't like the Chiltons
manual for the MGB. The best manual IMHO would be the "Official" one
published by Robert Bently (available from most MG mail order houses).
Once it's running, the roadster should be well worth the effort.
Drop a note and let us know what you find. Also there is alot of
information available here pertaining to parts suppliers that you may
find helpful. Most have free catalogs.
Regards,
John Van Valkenburgh KE4QBR
Raleigh, NC.
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