I seem to have fallen off the backside of this list, so I'm trying a test...
To the folks who have been following my question about "balancing" the
suspension (I was lifting the rear wheel in turns), I've addressed the
issue. My B is now sporting uprated front springs (25% greater spring
rate, slightly lower than stock) and a 3/4" anti-sway bar (uprated from
9/16").
My conclusions? 1) Don't believe someone when they can say "ah, you can
mash your existing hardware to fit the 3/4" bar", and 2) Allow 5x the
estimated time to complete your first iteration of ANY mechanical task.
#1 is true for the front bushes on the sway bar (what are they called?
The big rubber trapezoids) but makes the bolts very hard to thread. I'm
going to get real replacement parts today. It is NOT true however for
the little clamp things which prevent "lateral excursion" of the bar. How
important are they anyway? I couldn't see a way for the bar to slide
sideways... I put the thing on 1" off-center and could NOT slide it over
for love nor money. Had to completely undo both front bushes.
Anyway, the cornering is MUCH flatter. I don't know if the rear wheel
spin has been conquered (it doesn't occur during normal, even "spirited"
driving), but will find out on the 26th.
I've purchased the Unipart Premium filter, which indeed >does< have an
anti-flowback device. Will let you know how it affects initial pressure
buildup. As a reminder, I have the oil-cooler extension which requires
the filter to screw >down< onto the seat, and I'm guessing the oil drains
out when I stop the engine.
In oil-related news, I did notice, while working on the front end, some
surface rust under the car. This sounds negative, but it's kind of
neat... you see, before, there was SO much oil leaking that it preserved
everything. The rust is on a new weld. Should I grind it and paint it,
oil it, or not worry about it?
John M. Trindle | jtrindle@tsquare.com | Tidewater Sports Car Club
'73 MGB DSP | '69 Spitfire E Stock | '88 RX-7 C Stock
http://www.widomaker.com/~trindle
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