After some digging, the product that scored best in a university and DoD
study was called LPS3. LPS makes a variety of products, and they are
all numbered sequentialy. Do a web search on LPS3 or LPS 3 and I'm sure
you'll find the appropriate items.
JJJ
Paul Hunt wrote:
>I've used Waxoyl for the sills and other box sections, but it does need to
>be thinned to liquid and/or sprayed on a hot day or it will stick where it
>hits and not run, that is if you can even get a spray out of the gun. But
>even several days or weeks after spraying, getting some decent sunshine onto
>the panel, will liquidise it and cause it to drip out of the drain holes.
>Needn't worry too much about getting to the tops of the box sections as they
>usually rot through at the bottom, but thin/hot enough to spray and using
>the purpose-made cavity adapter (a long plastic tube with a nail stuffed in
>the open end) will reach anyway. I have used clean engine oil at the front
>and rear sections of the sill where they are behind the front and rear wing
>cover panels as the gap is so narrow that Waxoyl tends to bridge the gap and
>not run down adequately, even in hot sunshine. Others have talked of
>sealing up all the drain holes and pouring clean engine oil in the top to
>fill the sills (don't forget there is an inner and an outer cavity) then
>draining it out. This can be reused in other cavities (probably not the
>engine or gearbox!) unless it has flushed out a load of water.
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>> I want to soak the inside of my sills (cills?) with oily stuff but Rust
>>Check will not sell me a few litres, Krone wants $70! So, anyone know
>>
>>
>how
>
>
>>to make penetrating oil? Perhaps mix engine oil with toluene, acetone or
>>kerosene or what?
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