You can get good results with a process / procedure using JB Weld to build the
worn area up to match the Archimedes screw.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
----- Reply message -----
From: "mgbob@juno.com" <mgbob@juno.com>
To: <wbeech@flash.net>
Cc: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Date: Thu, Sep 12, 2013 6:50 pm
If the leak is really bad, it indicates probable wear on the scroll and the
little shield.
If one can tolerate quarter to half-dollar drip spots, the original seal
will do.
In our club, six or eight owners have tried the improved seal. Half are
happy and half are not. I used the original seal type, and have no regrets.
Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: <wbeech@flash.net>
To: <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500
Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main
on the '52TD. What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy
for this repair/replacement? I would rather not have to grind the crank to
fit some aftermarket product. Just going to do the seals and the top-end is
tight and there are no other real issues here.
Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
Many thanks,
Bill
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