Mike O'Connor at O'Connor Classic Automobiles started lengthening the
clutch link rod some years ago. He also drilled another hole in the
clutch
lever, that hangs from the engine.
I did some investigating, and this is what I found.
The original clutch rods are threaded down the rod 1/4" more, than the
replacement rods are.
The new clutch link rods are shorter by 1/8", than original. 12 7/8"
vs. 13".
Flywheel surfacing, clutch pressure plate resurfacing, can also
remove some
thickness from the equation, just not as much as the other items.
So, with new parts installed, you are at least 3/16" shorter in
adjustment lengths,
than with OEM parts. Add wear in lever holes, and other wear, and you
can be
left with a car that you cannot fully disengage the clutch, although
you have
installed new parts.
Moss Motors now sells an adjustable length clutch link rod. 190-422.
I set them
to 13 1/2" center to center of the clevis pin holes.
John Seim
Irvine, CA
On Oct 15, 2011, at 6:25 PM, Douglas Ormrod wrote:
> OK, I heated and reshaped my LHD clutch rod and it worked out fine
> and fitted
> nicely. However, even with it fully wound up to the max adjustment
> the clutch
> does not disengage properly. I can just get it into gear but it
> creeps. My old
> rod was pretty well fully adjusted to the max before it broke.
>
> I did make a new hole on the pivot, but using that hole it would
> not even get
> close to disengaging.
>
> My peal box had a hole for the clutch stop but none was fitted. So
> from what
> Dave said it could be that I had excessive clutch travel which has
> worn out my
> clutch release bearing. Is that the most likely scenario? The
> clutch was a
> reconditioned unit 7500 miles ago and the release bearing was new.
> Am I just
> looking at replacing the release bearing or is there likely to be
> other
> damage?
>
> At least I will now have the incentive to fix my gearbox which has
> been
> sometimes jumping out of third on overun for the last 5 years -
> been putting
> it off!
>
> Cheers
>
> Douglas
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