Doug,
Below is an article that I wrote around a a question by a gentleman on
one of the T series forums online that will answer your question about
the broken rod.
Something interesting happened on the way to the forum (actually while
looking up information for Richard in regards to the clutch pedal stop
in the TD/TF). First, according to the T series Handbook, published by
the New England Register, the pedal stop on the early TDs (TD/0251
through TD/22250) was accomplished by the cable that operated the
clutch. Starting with TD22251 through the TFs, the cable was abandoned
and a rod linkage was used to operate the clutch. At this point, a
clutch stop bolt was added to the bottom of the pedal box in the cars.
The cable stop and the the clutch stop bolt effectively stops any
further travel of the throw out bearing against the thrust plate on the
clutch pressure plate beyond the point where the clutch disk is released
and the prevention of possible damage to the clutch throw out bearing
due to over travel. Over time, the clutch cables were no longer
produced and the early cars that had originally been equipped with the
cable were converted to the clutch rod linkage, but since there was no
mention anywhere about the clutch stop bolt, said bolt was not added to
these cars. Also the cable stop bolt in a number of the later TDs and
in the TFs were undoubtedly lost or didn't get reinstalled during repair
or restoration.
Fast forward a number of years and Mike O'Connor of O'Connor classics in
California wrote an article in response to the breakage/bending of the
main clutch rod in TD as a result of interference with the web of the
clutch lever on the side of the sump. Mike's cure for this problem was
to grind the web of the clutch lever at an angle so that the clutch rod
was no longer bothered by this web. Also somewhere around that time
frame, two other gentlemen in California wrote a seemingly unrelated
article about, among other things, the missing clutch stop bolt and how
to make one and install it in the early cars that never had one. Both
of these articles reside in my great file of things MG, having been read
by me and filed for future reference (such as when someone like Richard
asks the question about excessive clutch pedal travel). In particular,
Mike O'Connor's article piqued my curiosity as to why I had never had a
problem with clutch rod breakage or bending even though the web in the
clutch lever on our TD had never been modified. My curiosity was
piqued, but not sufficiently to make me explore the reason the clutch
rod/clutch lever in our TD had not had any problem and so nothing was
looked into or done other than check that the clutch stop bolt was in
fact installed in our TD. Because of Richard's question, I dug out the
two aforementioned articles and made copies to send to Richard and it
was then that the penny finally dropped - the missing clutch stop bolt
was the reason for the need of Mike O'Connor's modification to the
clutch lever on the early TD. I also realized that I had never heard of
a clutch rod being broken on a TF. Serendipity is a wonderful thing.
While the O'Connor modification to the clutch lever is a quick and easy
fix to broken clutch rods, it does not fix the root problem, nor does it
prevent excessive pedal travel, resulting in excessive pressure being
applied to the clutch throwout bearing or the thrust surface of the
clutch pressure plate. Since I can't attach anything to replies on this
list, I will e-mail you directly with information on making and
installing a pedal stop bolt.
Cheers,
Dave
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