Okay, I'll abandon the alternator idea and stay with positive ground.
I didn't do any of the calculations (I never was able to master Ohm's
law) but when I installed the lights I ran them all day and never
watched the ammeter (it's hidden behind my right hand on the steering
wheel.) After about four day trips the battery went dead, so I
started paying attention.
Unfortunately, when I restored my ammeter I couldn't get the needle
to register at 0, so it's at about +2.5amp (half way between 0 and
the first mark) at rest. Depending on battery condition, engine at
speed and no lights on it runs between +15 and +5. When I turn the
halogens (wired as fog lights) on it drops to nearly 0 at speed,
maybe at +2 to 3, as near as I can tell while driving.
I started doing the charging system checks as per Al Moss in an old
issue of a newsletter, and generator output is fine. I'd be delighted
to find that I could solve all of this by adjusting the voltage
regulator. Instructions needed.
Andy Moyce
52 TD
------------------ Reply Separator --------------------
Originally From: Bullwinkle <yd3@nvc.net>
Subject: Re: Changing polarity
Date: 08/12/2001 02:56pm
Bob:
<<<snip>>>
"Bob D." wrote:
>
> Yes the stock TD voltage regulators are set to 16 volts, and yes
that's what
> the workshop manual says. BUT continuous 16 volts will cook a
battery.
That's because you're using a modern battery which has alot less
internal resistance than the old tar top batteries. However,
Andy is trying to add more lights for DAYTIME use. That means
they will be on all of the time.
I quote: "I've been trying to change to an alternator in my TD to
power some halogen driving lights, which I'd like to run during
the day for Safety Fast."
In that instance, he won't overcharge the battery.
The Ford model T and other early cars DID NOT have a voltage
regulator, just a cut out. The standard practice when driving
long distances with these cars was to run with the headlights on
to keep from "cooking" the battery. The headlamps used the extra
output from the generator. Thus the charging rate for the
batteries declined. The fluid level in the battery then didn't
drop and Andy can do likewise.
<<<snip>>>
My
> battery was always spitting out acid and my amp meter never dropped
below 15
> amps. I adjusted the regulator for 14 volts and the continuous
charge
> dropped down to around 2 amps. The only time the charge goes above
this is
> briefly after a stop light or after starting the engine.
<<<snip>>>
I am aware of this problem and have also compensated for it in
the same manner as you have suggested.
Blake
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