Bob:
I'm not a pro at his kind of stuff. I'm a LONG time MG -T owner. Had a
problem similiar to this in 1975 after a trip to Bend, OR to a GOF . My
suggestion to you is to pull the engine, check the cylinders and do
whatever is needed.
Install a NEW set of pistons, check the rods and everything else that
moves. If you don't you are liable to destroy the whole engine
Lee
1953 MG TD "The Pumpkin"
I removed the cylinder head on my TD to have it rebuilt by a local shop. (By
>local I mean it's in the same state, 120 miles away.) With the pistons
>exposed I discovered number four had a chunk along the edge missing. This
>left a hole though which one can see the top ring, or a piece of the ring.
>I'm not sure if the ring is still in one piece. The chunk was nowhere to be
>found, but evidently it was too big to fit between the piston and the
>non-recessed part of the head that overlaps the piston. There was a perfect
>pattern of this overlap pummeled into the top of the piston. This explains
>the terrible racket that occurred on a couple occasions that I attributed to
>a sticking valve. (I'm a rank novice gearhead.) Fortunately there seems to be
>very little damage to the cylinder wall, just a few faint scratches. Here's
>the question: Can I change the piston by dropping the pan without removing
>the engine from the car? The engine was overhauled a few thousand miles ago
>(just before a long period of storage) and from what I can see the other
>three pistons and cylinders are in good shape. Do pistons have to be changed
>in sets? They seem to be sold in sets. How can I tell if the connecting rod
>bearings are ok? I would normally leave this type of job to my mechanic, but
>I don't have access to a truck and trailer. Thanks in advance.
>
>Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
>EMAIL - BOBMGT@AOL.COM
>52 MGTD - under DIY restoration NEMGTR #11470
>71 MGB - AMGBA #96-12029, NAMGBR #7-3336
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