Alex,
Gerhard is correct in saying that the mandrel should have a point on it to
check the top of the dynamo but didn't mention that you also need a bush to fit
into the opening of the dynamo mounting housing with a hole to fit the
mandrel. The mandrel is inserted thru the vertical drive pinion hole in the
head and
if the dynamo mounting housing is in perfect alignment the mandrel will pass
into the hole in the bush. If it is out of alignment then it requires
adjustment as Gerhard explained by either removing the dowel pins for
rotational
adjustment and machining for new pins or adding/removing shims for fore/aft
adjustment. After this is done to perfection mount the dynamo to make sure the
pointed
end of the mandrel fit into the center hole of the top fork shaft. Shimming
or machining of the end face of the dynamo may be required to bring the dynamo
into alignment. If you have the dynamo mounting housing that was matched to
the block at the factory the dowel pin locations are probably OK so hopefully
you will only need to adjust for fore & aft.
It's a pretty straight forward task but could be time consuming. The accuracy
of the mandrel and bush is most important for perfect results. I made a set
for my J2 after having this process explained to me by Mike Hawk but still
haven't had to use it yet. It's been a long, slow restoration and I'm currently
restoring my TC at the moment so it may be some time before I get to use it. I
will gladly send a copy of my drawings if you send your address.
John Libbert
Milford OH
J2 3118
TC 2138
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