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Re: Aluminum skin for PA

To: <DSBonar@aol.com>, <mg-mmm@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminum skin for PA
From: <hiro@octagongarage.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2003 10:45:18 +0900
Reply-to: <hiro@octagongarage.com>
Sender: owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net
Don,

3003 is most suitable material to make body, however in Japan, 
it is impossible to get that material, so I made my J2 Racer's 
boat-tailed body in 5052. Thickness is 1mm. It is harder than 
3003 so 1mm is enough.
Gas welding needs a little skill but you can learn from 
expert's video (I recommend Kent White of "TM Technology" www.
tinmantech.com). Kent teaches many things, including alum 
material of course. Making alloy body is really fun!

Hiro
> 
> From: DSBonar@aol.com
> Date: 2003/02/01 土 午前 10:12:55 GMT+09:00
> To: mg-mmm@autox.team.net
> Subject: Aluminum skin for PA
> 
> > Hi MMM experts,
> > 
> > Stopped by the local aluminum source to begin education on 
skinning Ruby. 
> > Given new wings are aluminum, thought I'd do body the same 
and save weight/ avoid rust.
> > 
> > Big mistake! I needed to have graduated from remedial 
aluminum before wandering in there. They serve, for the most 
part, general aviation and experimental aircraft builders. 
> > 
> > Got a quick lesson on thicknesses, hardness scales, etc. 
They have rolls and sheets from .016 to .190 and hardness from 
H 14, H 32 and T3 alclad to T6 Bare. They also have stainless 
steel annealed but looks like you could skin in $20 bills for 
same price!
> > 
> > For those of you ahead of me, what did you use? Do you vary 
the thickness... say between the quarter pannel and the door... 
or tub behind the petrol tank? Stiffer for door, say T6, and 
easier to shape H32 for tub?
> > 
> > Thanks for anything you can share.
> > 
> > Don B. and "Ruby" 

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