Hi Pete,
Original cotter keys were threaded on both ends. 3//8" BSF on the large rear
end and 1/4" BSF on the front. I think the correct installation procedure is
to install the cotter pin from the rear, tap it home to make sure it is
fully installed, tighten front 1/4" BSF nut, and finally snug up large 3/8 "
BSF nut on the rear for the steering stop. The rear nut, along with a large
bolt head on the steering knuckle, make up the steering stop. Back plate
mounting bolts ( at least on a TC ) are not part of the steering stop.
You can make your own 3/8" cotter pin using 3/.8" threads at each ends. Much
better in my opinion.
Regards, Bob Grunau
Don, et al:
Taking your second question first: The cottor bolts are indeed threaded so
that when tightened, they will wedge the king pin into the eye of the axle.
Recently I found I could wiggle the front wheel on my TC (same as P or N)
and found it was not the usual worn bushings in the spindle or bad wheel
bearings, but rather the cotter bolt had bottomed out on the head and not
wedged the king pin completely. When I removed the bolt, it showed marks on
the flat wedge indicating movement of the king pin.
I measured two sets of cotter bolts at a hair over 2". These are
replacements that do not have the original large hex head. I won't use them
because the large bolt head is what actually limits steering travel. One of
the bolts securing the backing plate should come into contact with this
large head of the cotter bolt. Without that limitation, steering travel
will continue until the peg in the steering box reaches the end of the worm.
If this happens, you put severe additional load on the sector shaft and they
can break at the most inoportune moment.
So if you still have your original large headed cotter bolts, use them. I
cured my problem by cutting a small shim to fit the flat of the wedge bolt
and reinstalled. All looseness was eliminated and the car steers like a
dream.
Pete Thelander
> Gentlemen,
> All this time I've been way short on bits & pieces. Now, I have too many
> parts!
>
> I have two new sets of cotter pins used to secure the king pins (MG
Service
> parts list # MG374/1). They are identical except ... one set is 2-3/8"
long
> and appear to be cad coated. The second set appears to be mild steel 2.0"
> long. Anyone have a set they can measure? Does it make a difference?
>
> Why are they threaded on one end? Is that simply to help draw down for a
> tight fit or ... does something else attach?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Don B.
>
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