Dear MMMers
I was interested in Hiro Nishio's enquiry, not because I can offer an
answer, but because I too am seeking after knowledge.
It's often said that straight monograde oils as supplied by Penrite,
Castrol Classic etc. are preferable for cast in white metal bearinged
engines. My own P type has an interesting (but commonplace) combination
of:
a) Phoenix crank with white metal mains but Cooper S shell bearings
b) Overhead camshaft with the usual white metal bearings
The engine has been thoroughly rebuilt with new components (do our North
American friends describe this as a "tear down"? - sounds painful!) and
the unit has been totally cleansed, so it is "as new".
The oil that I am using for the initial bench running is Castrol
old-style GTX (not the more recent "Magnatec" version) which Peter Green
of MMM Register fame uses in all his road-going cars including the Cream
Cracker P type, (but not in his racers, where Castrol R is preferred).
I intend to use my P type as a road car, so do not need a rocket science
solution, but any guidance that folks can offer would be gratefully
received.
Regards to all
Dick Morbey
(Buckinghamshire, UK)
-----Original Message-----
From: tnishio@adv.mei.co.jp [mailto:tnishio@adv.mei.co.jp]
Sent: Friday 01 December 2000 09:28
To: mg-mmm@autox.team.net
Subject: ENGINE OIL
Dear Friends,
In Japan, it has been almost impossible to get any single grade engine
oil for
5-10 years. Since all of my English MMM friends suggests me to use SAE30
in
winter and SAE40 in summer to MMM OHC engine, I had to ask my friend's
trading
company to import BP-HD40 (need special license, so I can't import it by
myself)
and used it for long time. It was very very expensive but no other way,
however
I ended up with the crack on the main bearing and then No.1 big end
metal has
gone.
Recently some suggestion come to me from Japanese friends. One
recommends to use
multi grade like BP Classic (20W-60), and another who uses FIAT 509
(1935)
strongly suggests to use synthetic oil (Mobil 1) with 5% gear oil (SAE90
or 140)
added.
He says synthetic oil is very effective to keep the firm oil film on all
the
surface inside engine although it tends to leak more than mineral oil.
The key
is to add 5% gear oil, he emphasizes.
Does anyone give some idea about this issue? For your ref, I am trying
BP
Classic now for my J2. The engine was rebuilt by myself with little
tight
(3/100mm) clearance on big ends and rear main white bearings some
1800miles ago,
it gives 80+ pressure on the gauge in high rev, 30-40 in idling when
very warm
after 1-2 hours non-stop drive on the highway at 50-60mph, but I don't
like its
quite "dull" feeling then.
Any suggestion welcome. Thank you.
Hiro Nishio
Kobe, Japan
J2 4302
British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
MMM list subscription info: http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
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British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
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