Sure, Skip. Just a bit preoccupied with Jon Amo's forums at the moment.
Hey, here's something good for you guys that haven't discovered it or
something similar. A water/humidity curing preimpregnated resin/fiberglas
tape. Made by a local outfit here in San Jose. Neat stuff to have handy in
the trailer. Available from Lowes around $10 last time I looked.
http://www.durapower.com/
http://www.durapower.com/Pipe%20&%20Hose.htm
http://www.durapower.com/patch_kit.htm
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=16462-72798-FST260
So here's my story--
I've got this 5000 gallon water tank for my well with a christmas tree of
valves at the bottom outlet. Last week I'm doing a "light" repair and got
a bit heavy handed with a pipe wrench. Bad scene. Cracked steel 1-1/4"
pipe nipple right where it goes into a big reducer at the tank wall inside
the first valve. Full tank with 10ft head pressure and a nice 1 gpm spray
fountain from the break. So I head off to the not so local hardware store
(Orchard Supply in San Jose) hoping to find a solution. And find it I did.
DuraPower Pipe and Hose repair kit. Cost $18 and change there; pricey but at
that point I was ready to pay a lot more. Inside the box were a sealed
plastic bag, a pair of "medium" latex gloves that didn't fit me and some
directions. Cut open the sealed bag and found a flat roll of 2" wide x 60"
long sticky resin impregnated fiberglass tape (reason for the gloves) that
would cure once it exposed to air (which always contains some humidity).
Instructions said that if you put it in water first it would cure a lot
faster, like 30-40 minutes.
I dug out around the pipe so I could wrap it without getting too much dirt
sticking to it and pulled tight with each wrap per the instruction until the
whole 60 inches was wrapped on. The crack was in the corner where the pipe
thread entered the larger cast iron reducing bushing. Not exactly an ideal
situation. A conventional pipe repair clamp wouldn't work and the water
pressure would fight any ordinary tape, gasket goop or epoxy.
Well, it worked like a charm. No more leak. After a few minutes the curing
and swelling of the resin became visible. And no leaks visible since. And
no, I'm not sure what the temperature limits might be. Need to contact
DuraPower.
Any of you guys have experience with this go tell the story over on the
Landracing.com forum for folks who stay over there.
Ed Weldon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skip Higginbotham" <Saltrat@pahrump.com>
To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 6:17 AM
Subject: [Land-speed] Home
> Anyone there? Skip
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