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Re: plumbing a nitrous system

To: "paul bland" <paul.blandavon@btinternet.com>, <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: plumbing a nitrous system
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 05:52:29 -0500
Paul .... Larry....

First thing ya gotta know is WHO'S system is this..... and what are the
Nozzles designed to flow.... my jetting for the Nitrous works system is
totally different then the Jetting for the NOS system   as are the fuel
pressures.    I have tune up's for my NOS system at Bonneville that Dave and
I have run with success.  but I wouldn't presume to know what the tune up is
on a Mystry nozzle....  Thou the 2 degrees of timing for every 50hp of
Nitrous seems to be a correct number across the board.

Larry I don't know if I would install a dual system up front on my first
foray into the Nitrous game.... it's much more complicated then the single
system....  The advantage is that you can stage in the nitrous and possibly
not shock the tires quite as hard with the application.... Keep in mind also
that tuning a dual system is Very different then tuning a single system.

This is going to be my first year running a dual system .  We are using a
smaller Plate system and a Fogger system together.   Nitrous works and Barry
Grant Fuel systems along with Dave's Engine Management systems have designed
the whole deal and been real good to me in Tuning the set up....

I will tell you that I am NOT running any safety devices for the
Nitrous..... or Fuel system..... I took out the Hobb's switch and the WOT
switch.... and assume that the Driver understands that the car must be wide
open above 6000rpm before the system's can be used..... which is fairly safe
as all three of us that drive the car are familiar with the use of the
nitrous. and I have an extensive test procedure I do everytime before we use
the system. ( see the end of the check list the other day I included it )

Nitrous is a wonderful tool BUT it's a hard way to build Hp on an engine.
The bottom end needs to be spot on and designed to stand the added cylinder
pressures.    The Rings need to be farther down in the cylinders and the
compression levels aren't as critical as they are in a N/A application....

Just about everything I know about running Nitrous I learned from Dave
Dahlgren .... Just to keep up with his thoughts I have read everything I can
get my hands on about Nitrous and it's use.....  It's an amazing toy.... but
used incorrectly it can do some serious damage....

K
----- Original Message -----
From: "paul bland" <paul.blandavon@btinternet.com>
To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2001 5:14 AM
Subject: re: plumbing a nitrous system


> At last a question I can answer! Larry with eight solenoids you have a two
> stage system (obviously) so what you should also have is this, 16 fogger
> nozzles, 8 distribution blocks(1 for each solenoid) 32 hard lines, 2
bottles,
> 2 dedicated fuel pumps, various fittings and about 37 miles of braided
hose!
> what you do is this: drill and tap your inlet manifold for the nozzles
(1/16
> npt tap) fit the fogger nozzles, determine where the solenoids are going
to
> go, obviously look at hood/scoop etc...  clearance, you can then cut and
bend
> your hard lines to suit and fit them to the distribution blocks that you
will
> fit on the solenoids. Decide where your bottles are going to fit, mount
them
> along the car, not sideways, and point the tap forwards. you can now cut
and
> fit your braded hose, this goes to a "Y" fitting and then splits to 2
nitrous
> solenoids, I use - 8 to the "Y" fitting and -6 to the solenoids. I've got
a
> seperate fuel pump for each stage and another for the carb, keep them all
> seperate then it's easier to isolate a problem. I operate each stage
manually,
> one on a micro switch on the carb and one button on the "butterfly" rough
> jetting sizes are:
> 28 n2o + 32 fuel= upto 175bhp
> 32 n2o + 36 fuel= upto 250 bhp
> 36 n2o + 40 fuel = upto 325 bhp
> 40 n20 + 46 fuel = upto 400 bhp (I'm not responsable for your pistons!)
Don't
> be tempted to run both systems off one bottle, it's not good, Most
important
> fit a good Retard unit, I use MSD, 4 degrees retard per 100 bhp is usually
a
> safe start point. And Allways fit low pressure fuel switches that will
kill
> the whole system if fuel pressure drops. hope that helps, if I can help
> further let me know, I can scan to email wiring diagrams if you need them.
> Regards, Paul.
>
Pau///

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