Dick.... maybe I am missing something here.... It's a Car Part Right?
and WE are trying to REMOVE IT right?
Okay now where is the Problem?...... ALL CAR PARTS ARE REMOVABLE WITH A
HAMMER... some parts require skill Like adding a second tool to the
arsenal... that of the Chisel....BUT all Parts ARE removable... Even an
engine can be removed with a Hammer... ( see VERY BIG hammer in the
Dictionary )
Dick if it don't budge by this Time tomorrow... sit back and regroup... no
need to think... you already know what you did wrong.... catch your breath
and ....GET A BIGGER HAMMER ..... This ain't rocket science... it's Basic
Math.... Bigger is BETTER ....
Even Miss Kathy can figure this one out.... ( now you know why I don't
crinkle paint in the House anymore )
----------
> From: Dick J <lsr_man@yahoo.com>
> To: FastmetalBDF@aol.com; kturk@ala.net; land-speed@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Frozen Brake Drum Question
> Date: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 2:54 PM
>
> I'm taking in all this advice and will try a
> combination. There are no holes to pry from.
> The axles are tapered, presumeably with a keyway.
> The axle flanges appear to be welded to the
> drums. I put a big puller on the lugs and tried
> around 400 ftlbs of torque (using one of those 4
> foot wrenches made for Porsche flywheels), then
> hammered too. I was afraid I'd break the puller.
>
> Dick J
>
>
> --- FastmetalBDF@aol.com wrote:
> > Dick, Does the drum have a large hole
> > ( like 3 or 4 inch ) on its'
> > face
> > where the end of the axle sticks through to
> > take any shear loading off of the
> > lugs ...... as older chevs do ? They can get
> > stuck like they were welded on
> > at this juncture of the axle & drum . That is
> > why Chevrolet provided the two
> > " C " shaped holes, 180 * opposite each other,
> > in the face of the drum .....
> > you hammer a pair of those hook shaped "
> > wedging " tools in between the
> > drum face and axle flange face and pry outward
> > on both handles ......
> > usually does the job ..... many times the drum
> > pops off right as you hammer
> > them in ..... sometimes you do need some heat
> > to help coax them off ......
> > I do not know if your old Mopar has
> > those holes in the drums, or the
> > shouldered axle ends ..... never worked on 'em
> > ..... my toys and daily drivers
> > were always flathead Fords n' smallblock Chevs
> > . Be sure to check to
> > see if the drums are badly worn, and the ridge
> > near the backside of the
> > drum is hanging up on the edge of the brake
> > shoes ...... this can be a real
> > headache if you don' t care to TURKhammer them
> > ! ( he knows ALL
> > those Old World Craftsman precision tricks,
> > doesn' t he !!! )
> > Maybe you could make a custom puller
> > arrangement up with some
> > steel plate and big ( like 1" ) threaded rod to
> > apply steady pressure ( AND
> > maybe some hearty raps on the drum ) ......
> > that has saved the day for
> > me a few times . Working with vintage tin and
> > tired iron presents its' own
> > PROBLEMS ..... but it' s sure gratifying when
> > you solve them !
> > Don' t forget the school of thought that
> > if enough CHOICE words
> > are directed at the offending parts ..... ALL
> > will work out !!!
> > I graduated from that school long ago
> > ..... ( well, MOST of the time ! )
> > Have FUN ! Watch out for skinned knuckles and
> > ruined parts .......
> > YOURS and the
> > car' s !
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> * Dick J *
> * (In East Texas) *
> * # 729 *
> * C/GRS E/STR *
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
>
> __________________________________________________
|