Larry; I can tell you how I would build it. That does not mean it the
right or only way. But take it from a guy that just tipped over 3 1/2
times at 170 MPH without a mark or sore spot on my body. Go look at a
nascar truck roll cage. Every bar in there is in there for a reason. You
don't have to have all the door bars because there isn't 42 other trucks
out there that might run into you. Look at the seat and seat mounting
very closely. I have seen cars that didn't have much damage but the
driver was badly hurt or killed because the seat broke lose. You must
have the seat attached to the roll cage so you and the cage are one
unit. Doug Odom in big ditch having a great thanksgiving
LGMCAFEE@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi list
>
> I have a 1952 chevy pickup that I'm going to start work on and need
> some advice on roll cages. This will be a D mod class truck. I called several
> companies and found only one that has a cage for this year. They make a 8
> point cage with 1 3/4 tube with ,134 wall or they make a 10 point that is 1
> 5/8 by .134 wall thickness. Looking at the rule book either one will work, is
> this correct. I'm leaning toward the 10 point. Also as you all know these old
> trucks set real high and I need to get it down. Is an after market drop axle
> legal? I was also thinking of making an adjustable drop axle. Any suggestion
> will be appreciated. Thanks
> Everyone have a good thanksgiving.Larry Mac
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