This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============8630983496921447870==
boundary="------------8VWGG9CiXSqOUGzws6tX0OxI"
Content-Language: en-US
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------8VWGG9CiXSqOUGzws6tX0OxI
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Just to confirm: Hubs from a later car, say, a BJ8 will completely
interchange with a BN2 hub?
How would one determine a correct gasket thickness? There's no way,
IIRC, to get a feeler gauge in there.
TIA,
Bob
On 3/23/2024 5:25 AM, john harper wrote:
> Gary
>
> The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate
> machining of the depth of the bearing location and an accurate bearing
> width. Tolerances are very tight and it is hoped that a gachet of
> correct thickness will make a good oil seal and at the same time grip
> the bearing outer from turning in its housing.
>
> This problem was addressed by the manufacturer and an extra grove was
> machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is fitted an 'O' ring
> that will seal the gap between the hub and half shaft. This will seal
> a wide range of tolerances and at the same time ensure that there is a
> good grip on the bearing outer.
>
> If available the best solution is to find hubs for later big Healey
> and fit these together with 'O' rings.
>
> Another solution is to run a continuous ring of liquid gasket around
> the face of the hub before assembly. This is also the only effective
> seal on early BN1 hubs.
>
> All the best
>
> On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02, warthodson--- via Healeys
> <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> The work shop manual refers to a specific dimension that the paper
> gasket must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.
> The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were too
> thin. I made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure,
> so far, 15-20 years!
> Gary Hodson
>
> On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spidell
> <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle
> bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years.
> I'm not sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that
> problem, but something to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy
> to get the requisite torque on the big eight-sided nut that clamps
> the inner race; knocking it on with a hammer and chisel isn't a
> good solution (I use a purpose-made large socket and a 3/4" air
> impact driver). They can spin in the hub as well.
>
> Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I
> couldn't tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no
> name' and the 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken
> or SK; I don't recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me,
> but given the hassle of this job I went for 'premium.'
>
>
> On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> What Bob says.
>
> The inner seal on the axle is the critical piece and if there is
> wear on the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve
> or similar repair piece.
> BTW SKF and others make what they call semi-sealed or sealed
> bearings with plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the
> bearing but since the sealed ones are not filled with oil I have
> never understood how they are supposed to get lubrication.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06â?¯PM Bob Haskell
> <rchaskell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil. No
> grease. Oil flows between the axle shaft and the axle housing
> to around to the bearing. Yes, the paper gasket has to be oil
> tight. The oil seal keeps the oil from lubricating the brake
> shoes.
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>
> On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
>> Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work.
>> They are inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be
>> packed with grease? ( the service manual suggests they
>> should, but the same manual doesn't tell you to pack the hub
>> with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). Is the
>> back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub
>> bearing? If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to
>> half-shaft joint will need to be oil tight.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any help.
>>
>> Mike Brooks
>> 56 BN2
>> Scotland
>>
--------------8VWGG9CiXSqOUGzws6tX0OxI
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
<!DOCTYPE html>
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
</head>
<body>
Just to confirm: Hubs from a later car, say, a BJ8 will completely
interchange with a BN2 hub?<br>
<br>
How would one determine a correct gasket thickness? There's no way,
IIRC, to get a feeler gauge in there.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/23/2024 5:25 AM, john harper
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAL28cLUvybn2OWGKy+E4=PSWERNZOuxcMRdcB3fq4UJAw=T7Tw@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">Gary
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate
machining of the depth of the bearing location and an accurate
bearing width. Tolerances are very tight and it is hoped that
a gachet of correct thickness will make a good oil seal and at
the same time grip the bearing outer from turning in its
housing.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>This problem was addressed by the manufacturer and an extra
grove was machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is
fitted an 'O' ring that will seal the gap between the hub and
half shaft. This will seal a wide range of tolerances and at
the same time ensure that there is a good grip on the bearing
outer.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>If available the best solution is to find hubs for
later big Healey and fit these together with 'O' rings.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Another solution is to run a continuous ring of
liquid gasket around the face of the hub before assembly. This
is also the only effective seal on early BN1 hubs.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>All the best</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02,
warthodson--- via Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div
style="font-family:"Comic Sans MS",sans-serif;font-size:16px">
<div dir="ltr">The work shop manual refers to a specific
dimension that the paper gasket must stand proud of the
steel ring spacer.</div>
<div dir="ltr">The gaskets that I received from a well
known supplier were too thin. I made my own & have
never had a leak or a bearing failure, so far, 15-20
years!</div>
<div dir="ltr">Gary Hodson</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div
id="m_-3944875174496281455ydp662d60cyahoo_quoted_1217414981">
<div
style="font-family:"Helvetica
Neue",Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:rgb(38,40,42)">
<div> On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob
Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote: </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div
id="m_-3944875174496281455ydp662d60cyiv6546823410">
<div> Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large
number of spun axle bearings--IIRC he said 'a
hundred' or so--over the last few years. I'm not
sure exactly what you'd look for that presages
that problem, but something to keep in mind. It's
not particularly easy to get the requisite torque
on the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner
race; knocking it on with a hammer and chisel
isn't a good solution (I use a purpose-made large
socket and a 3/4" air impact driver). They can
spin in the hub as well.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium'
for $21.99; I couldn't tell you the difference
except the cheap one is a 'no name' and the
'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe
Timken or SK; I don't recall). Worth it or just
'marketing?' Beats me, but given the hassle of
this job I went for 'premium.'<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<div
id="m_-3944875174496281455ydp662d60cyiv6546823410yqtfd89942">
<div>On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:<br
clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"> </blockquote>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div
id="m_-3944875174496281455ydp662d60cyiv6546823410yqtfd78669">
<div dir="ltr">
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">What Bob
says.  </div>
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br
clear="none">
</div>
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">The inner
seal on the axle is the critical piece and
if there is wear on the sealing surface you
will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar
repair piece.</div>
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">BTW SKF and
others make what they call semi-sealed or
sealed bearings with plastic or fibre pieces
on one or both sides of the bearing but
since the sealed ones are not filled with
oil I have never understood how they are
supposed to get lubrication.</div>
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br
clear="none">
</div>
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Â </div>
</div>
<br clear="none">
<div>
<div dir="ltr">On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06â?¯PM
Bob Haskell <<a shape="rect"
href="mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net";
rel="nofollow" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>>
wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote
style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<p>Mike,</p>
<p>The bearings are lubricated with the
rear axle oil. No grease. Oil flows
between the axle shaft and the axle
housing to around to the bearing. Yes,
the paper gasket has to be oil tight.Â
The oil seal keeps the oil from
lubricating the brake shoes.<br
clear="none">
</p>
<pre>Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
<div>On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via
Healeys wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"> Can someone
explain how the hub oil seals are meant
to work. They are inbord of the hub
bearings. Are the hubs meant to be
packed with grease? ( the service manual
suggests they should, but the same
manual doesn't tell you to pack the hub
with grease when changing hub bearings
and seals). Is the back axle oil
intended to pass across the oil seal to
the hub bearing? If so, then the paper
gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft
joint will need to be oil tight.
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Thanks in advance for any help.</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Mike Brooks</div>
<div>56 BN2</div>
<div>Scotland</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</body>
</html>
--------------8VWGG9CiXSqOUGzws6tX0OxI--
--===============8630983496921447870==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
--===============8630983496921447870==--
|