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That is easy to check. With the TDC mark aligned at 0 degrees no:1
cylinder boths valves should be fully closed. Turning the crank shaft
about 170 degrees forward and the exhaust valve should begin to open.
turning another 180 degrees and the exhaust valve should start closing
and the inlet valve opening, depending on the overlap.
Kees
Op 12-6-2023 om 15:15 schreef Bob Spidell:
> Almost sounds like the cam is /way/ out of phase (I think even
> unlapped valves would seal better than that). The 'count 13 links' cam
> install 'system' is wonky at best and confusing. Fortunately, I don't
> think the Austin is an interference engine.
>
> On 6/12/2023 3:50 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hello Patrick,
>>
>>
>> Between 5 and 10lbs can barely be called a compression so something
>> serious is amiss. It should be well above 5bar for any engine.
>> Depending on C-R and wear. Even with a slightly burned or not lapped
>> in valve.
>>
>> If it is not the clearances it really looks like a head off job to
>> investigate and sort the valves. Luckily not too big a job on the A-H.
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Kees
>>
>>
>>
>> Op 12-6-2023 om 12:01 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn:
>>>
>>> Hello Kees
>>>
>>> Thank you for your response.
>>>
>>> Iâ??m afraid I tried all that. Plugs are wet! Even made sure the earth
>>> strap was earthing properly. Also used a starting fluid called
>>> â??Start ya Bastard!â??
>>>
>>> I did a compression test and each cylinder was between 5 and 10 lbs.
>>> Not quite what it should be.
>>>
>>> When the engine expired last year, the first thing I did was to have
>>> the cylinder head pressure tested. It was okay, but I suspect that
>>> when they put it back together the valves were not lapped in. The
>>> head comes off next weekend to check.
>>>
>>> Hoo Roo
>>>
>>> Patrick Quinn
>>>
>>> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Kees
>>> Oudesluijs via Healeys
>>> *Sent:* Monday, June 12, 2023 6:43 PM
>>> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
>>>
>>> Did you check the firing order, camshaft timing, valve clearances?
>>> Does the distributor shaft turn when the engine is turning over?
>>>
>>> Check the bypass wiring of the ballast resistor. Check the correct
>>> wiring of the coil, you would not be te first to have the polarity
>>> wrong.
>>>
>>> The compression on a freshly rebuild engine is lower than on an
>>> engine that has been properly run in. It also depends on the
>>> tolerances and surface finishes used in the rebuild. Assuming that
>>> it is a proper rebuild the compression should not be an issue here.
>>> Whatever the compression the engine should start.
>>>
>>> Timing and fuel cannot be spot on as the engine is not running and
>>> fine tuning of mixture and ignition should be made on a running
>>> engine. It is however not an issue either as you set ignition
>>> initially statically as you do with the adjustment of the carbs and
>>> it should at least run on that.
>>>
>>> Are the spark plugs wet or dry after churning? Try spraying some
>>> easy start fluid (mainly Aether) into the throat of the carbs during
>>> turning over and see if you get some life. If so it is a fuel issue.
>>>
>>> Good luck.
>>>
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>> Op 12-6-2023 om 07:41 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys:
>>>
>>> Hello
>>>
>>> No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the
>>> BN3â??s rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down
>>> the road failed to instill any life into the engine.
>>>
>>> Everything is spot on â?? timing, spark and fuel.
>>>
>>> Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt
>>> engine should be?
>>>
>>> Many thanks
>>>
>>> Patrick Quinn
>>>
>>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>>
>>>
>
>
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<p>That is easy to check. With the TDC mark aligned at 0 degrees
no:1 cylinder boths valves should be fully closed. Turning the
crank shaft about 170 degrees forward and the exhaust valve should
begin to open. turning another 180 degrees and the exhaust valve
should start closing and the inlet valve opening, depending on the
overlap.</p>
<p>Kees</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 12-6-2023 om 15:15 schreef Bob
Spidell:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:0326739a-4a53-61a7-04c8-869bc0d0a90f@comcast.net">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
Almost sounds like the cam is <i>way</i> out of phase (I think
even unlapped valves would seal better than that). The 'count 13
links' cam install 'system' is wonky at best and confusing.
Fortunately, I don't think the Austin is an interference engine.<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/12/2023 3:50 AM, Kees Oudesluijs
via Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:faec6c2c-aa41-7e0b-6d6f-e566f9a8e59a@chello.nl">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=UTF-8">
<p><br>
Hello Patrick,</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Between 5 and 10lbs can barely be called a compression so
something serious is amiss. It should be well above 5bar for
any engine. Depending on C-R and wear. Even with a slightly
burned or not lapped in valve.<br>
</p>
<p>If it is not the clearances it really looks like a head off
job to investigate and sort the valves. Luckily not too big a
job on the A-H.</p>
<br>
<p>Cheers,<br>
Kees</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 12-6-2023 om 12:01 schreef
Patrick and Caroline Quinn:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:TY2PR0101MB27671851E6EEA896B80EF8958C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com">
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<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">Hello Kees<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thank you for your response.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Iâ??m afraid I tried all that. Plugs are
wet! Even made sure the earth strap was earthing properly.
Also used a starting fluid called â??Start ya
Bastard!â??<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I did a compression test and each
cylinder was between 5 and 10 lbs. Not quite what it
should be.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">When the engine expired last year, the
first thing I did was to have the cylinder head pressure
tested. It was okay, but I suspect that when they put it
back together the valves were not lapped in. The head
comes off next weekend to check.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Hoo Roo<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Patrick Quinn<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="mso-ligatures:none;mso-fareast-language:EN-AU"
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
style="mso-ligatures:none;mso-fareast-language:EN-AU"
lang="EN-US"> Healeys <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, June 12, 2023 6:43 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated
moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine
Compression<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p>Did you check the firing order, camshaft timing, valve
clearances? Does the distributor shaft turn when the
engine is turning over?<span
style="mso-ligatures:none;mso-fareast-language:EN-AU"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p>Check the bypass wiring of the ballast resistor. Check
the correct wiring of the coil, you would not be te first
to have the polarity wrong.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>The compression on a freshly rebuild engine is lower than
on an engine that has been properly run in. It also
depends on the tolerances and surface finishes used in the
rebuild. Assuming that it is a proper rebuild the
compression should not be an issue here. Whatever the
compression the engine should start.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>Timing and fuel cannot be spot on as the engine is not
running and fine tuning of mixture and ignition should be
made on a running engine. It is however not an issue
either as you set ignition initially statically as you do
with the adjustment of the carbs and it should at least
run on that.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>Are the spark plugs wet or dry after churning? Try
spraying some easy start fluid (mainly Aether) into the
throat of the carbs during turning over and see if you get
some life. If so it is a fuel issue.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p>Good luck.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs<o:p></o:p></p>
<p><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Op 12-6-2023 om 07:41 schreef Patrick
and Caroline Quinn via Healeys:<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">Hello<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">No amount of churning over with a new
battery will induce the BN3â??s rebuilt engine to fire.
Even towing the car up and down the road failed to
instill any life into the engine.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Everything is spot on â?? timing, spark
and fuel.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Anyone have an idea as to what the
compression be on a rebuilt engine should be?<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Many thanks<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â <o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Patrick Quinn<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Blue Mountains, Australia<o:p></o:p></p>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<br>
<br>
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