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It's not, or shouldn't be, friction on the threads that holds a bolted
joint together; it's the loaded tension of the stretched bolt. For any
bolted joint potentially exposed to moisture, with a few exceptions*,
anti-seize is appropriate. Common (cheap) anti-seize, which uses ground
ceramics, is OK for non-high-temp applications; copper-based is better,
and nickel-based is best for high-temp applications (ex. EGR valves,
spark plugs, etc.).
Like Mirek, and after much thought, I've taken to carefully putting a
bit of A-S on brake fitting threads. Maybe it's newer (lack of) quality
fittings and cylinders, but in the brake work I've done recently the
fittings haven't screwed-in as easily as I think they should, and we've
all probably rounded the 'nut' on brake fittings that have gotten
corrosion-welded in place (requiring cutting and replacing the line and
possibly the cylinder). Note brake fluid shouldn't ever come in contact
with the A-S, if the BF is getting past its seal that has to be
addressed properly.
Fasterner 'science' is fascinating
Explained well here:
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=bolt+fastening+theory#kpvalbx=_IzREY-bKO43ZkPIP16m4qAE_44
More:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_joint
* Where I don't use A-S, I may use threadlocker (usually blue, red for
inserts). I can't make up my mind on wheel studs; A-S for easy removal,
threadlocker for 'security' or nothing. Note both A-S and threadlocker
will affect bolt/stud tension for a given torque value.
On 10/10/2022 5:04 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Hi Simon, I often use an anti-seize paste on threads and I have never
> had a fastener loosen off and it definitely aids removal later. For
> example, One common component to seize is the capillary tube where it
> goes through the nut on the temperature sensor. For decades I have
> coated the tube where it passes through the nut, Â as well as the
> thread, and it makes removal of that nasty little thing so much
> easier. Mind you, it is a tapered pipe thread and they tend to stay
> tight. Another instance is brake line fittings; I slide the fitting
> back, lightly coat the brake line and then slide the fitting up to the
> flare, and coat the threads on the fitting, taking care not to get any
> into the hydraulic circuit. I have never broken a brake line from it
> seizing in the nut after doing this. I use â??Copper Anti Seizeâ?? made by
> Permatex.
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Simon
> Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* October 10, 2022 7:30 AM
> *To:* 'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Tightening bolts
>
> I had to loosen the bolts attaching the hinges on my BT7 the other
> day. 6 of them turned quite easily after some fairly hefty initial
> work. One needs a couple of whacks with an impact driver to get it
> started and one was just plain loose.
>
> So, now I want to tighten them up. Plainly, I want to be able to undo
> them again at some time or otherâ?¦.
>
> Does the team think that something like Coppaslip (or whatever itâ??s
> called) is a good idea. Half of me says, â??Use it. Youâ??ll be able to
> tighten them up that little bit more while still being able to undo
> them laterâ??.
>
> And the other half says, â??Donâ??t use it. It will enable the bolts to
> loosen themselves off.â??
>
> Which half of me is right???
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
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It's not, or shouldn't be, friction on the threads that holds a
bolted joint together; it's the loaded tension of the stretched
bolt. For any bolted joint potentially exposed to moisture, with a
few exceptions*, anti-seize is appropriate. Common (cheap)
anti-seize, which uses ground ceramics, is OK for non-high-temp
applications; copper-based is better, and nickel-based is best for
high-temp applications (ex. EGR valves, spark plugs, etc.). <br>
<br>
Like Mirek, and after much thought, I've taken to carefully putting
a bit of A-S on brake fitting threads. Maybe it's newer (lack of)
quality fittings and cylinders, but in the brake work I've done
recently the fittings haven't screwed-in as easily as I think they
should, and we've all probably rounded the 'nut' on brake fittings
that have gotten corrosion-welded in place (requiring cutting and
replacing the line and possibly the cylinder). Note brake fluid
shouldn't ever come in contact with the A-S, if the BF is getting
past its seal that has to be addressed properly.<br>
<br>
Fasterner 'science' is fascinating <br>
<br>
Explained well here:<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=bolt+fastening+theory#kpvalbx=_IzREY-bKO43ZkPIP16m4qAE_44";>https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=bolt+fastening+theory#kpvalbx=_IzREY-bKO43ZkPIP16m4qAE_44</a><br>
<br>
More:<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_joint";>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_joint</a><br>
<br>
* Where I don't use A-S, I may use threadlocker (usually blue, red
for inserts). I can't make up my mind on wheel studs; A-S for easy
removal, threadlocker for 'security' or nothing. Note both A-S and
threadlocker will affect bolt/stud tension for a given torque value.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/10/2022 5:04 AM, m.g.sharp--- via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
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<p class="MsoNormal">Hi Simon, I often use an anti-seize paste
on threads and I have never had a fastener loosen off and it
definitely aids removal later. For example, One common
component to seize is the capillary tube where it goes through
the nut on the temperature sensor. For decades I have coated
the tube where it passes through the nut, Â as well as the
thread, and it makes removal of that nasty little thing so
much easier. Mind you, it is a tapered pipe thread and they
tend to stay tight. Another instance is brake line fittings;
I slide the fitting back, lightly coat the brake line and then
slide the fitting up to the flare, and coat the threads on the
fitting, taking care not to get any into the hydraulic
circuit. I have never broken a brake line from it seizing in
the nut after doing this. I use â??Copper Anti Seizeâ?? made by
Permatex.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Cheers, Mirek<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-CA"
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-CA" lang="EN-US"> Healeys
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
<b>On Behalf Of
</b>Simon Lachlan via Healeys<br>
<b>Sent:</b> October 10, 2022 7:30 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Healeys' <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Tightening bolts<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I had to loosen the
bolts attaching the hinges on my BT7 the other day. 6 of
them turned quite easily after some fairly hefty initial
work. One needs a couple of whacks with an impact driver to
get it started and one was just plain loose.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">So, now I want to
tighten them up. Plainly, I want to be able to undo them
again at some time or otherâ?¦.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Does the team think that
something like Coppaslip (or whatever itâ??s called) is a good
idea. Half of me says, â??Use it. Youâ??ll be able to tighten
them up that little bit more while still being able to undo
them laterâ??.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">And the other half says,
â??Donâ??t use it. It will enable the bolts to loosen themselves
off.â??<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Which half of me is
right???<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Thanks, <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
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