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Hi Marek. Had the same thing happen to me years ago on my BJ8. Same design=
different arrangement on the centre shifts as on the side shifts =E2=80=93=
same switch part# for all. Bob is right =E2=80=93 the switch setting (not=
a tapered thread) is done with the fibre washer as a shim. The ball end a=
ctivator on the switch wears with mileage =E2=80=93 the switch has to be mo=
ved a bit inward to make up for the wear. A thinner washer (or maybe even =
no washer) will do the trick. As Bob says, just don=E2=80=99t jam it.
Earl Kagna
Victoria BC
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2022 8:22 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another O/D issue
The switch may be pipe thread, but you set its depth with shims (which are =
just fiber washers), part# 134 in this diagram:
https://mossmotors.com/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift
The lever on the shift rod (#94) bumps the switch; it only presses against =
the switch, closing its contacts, in 3rd & 4th. Pushing the lever to the ri=
ght pushes the shift rod to the left into the switch. If you have a 'shim' =
under the switch, removing it, or putting a thinner one in, should solve th=
e problem (the tip of the switch has limited travel, you don't want to jam =
it into the switch). If not, you'll need a new switch (contacts worn, maybe=
). Least likely, but not impossible, is a worn shift rod (they're brass).
> wrote:
Hi listers, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of =
overdrive if I wiggle the shift lever to the left. This is without doubt o=
pening the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to opera=
te in 3rd and 4th thus causing the O/D to disengage. Pushing the lever to =
the right re-engages it. I do not recall any adjustment on the switch to sc=
rew it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thread and will only go in =
so far. I am not sure what part of the shift lever actually bears on the e=
nd of the switch to engage it. The workshop manual is not much help in fig=
uring it out. Is it the switch or is it what ever it bears on when in 3rd =
or 4th? I have not had the g=E2=80=99box cover off to look at it yet but =
thought I=E2=80=99d ask the list if anyone had encountered this.
Thoughts and ideas?
--
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nk=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div class=3DWordSection1><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal>Hi Marek.=C2=A0 Had the same thing happen to me years ago on=
my BJ8. Same design different arrangement on the centre shifts as on the s=
ide shifts =E2=80=93 same switch part# for all.=C2=A0 Bob is right =E2=80=
=93 the switch setting (not a tapered thread) is done with the fibre washer=
as a shim.=C2=A0 The ball end activator on the switch wears with mileage =
=E2=80=93 the switch has to be moved a bit inward to make up for the wear.=
=C2=A0 A thinner washer (or maybe even no washer) will do the trick. As Bob=
says, just don=E2=80=99t jam it.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&=
nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Earl Kagna<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMso=
Normal>Victoria BC<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>BJ8, BT7 tri-carb<o:p=
></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal> =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div style=3D=
'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net>=
; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob Spidell<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, June 15, 2022 =
8:22 PM<br><b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healey=
s] Another O/D issue<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>The switc=
h may be pipe thread, but you set its depth with shims (which are just fibe=
r washers), part# 134 in this diagram:<br><br><a href=3D"https://mossmotors=
=2Ecom/external-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift">https://mossmotors.com/external=
-gearbox-4-speed-side-shift</a><br><br>The lever on the shift rod (#94) bum=
ps the switch; it only presses against the switch, closing its contacts, in=
3rd & 4th. Pushing the lever to the right pushes the shift rod to the =
left into the switch. If you have a 'shim' under the switch, removing it, o=
r putting a thinner one in, should solve the problem (the tip of the switch=
has limited travel, you don't want to jam it into the switch). If not, you=
'll need a new switch (contacts worn, maybe). Least likely, but not impossi=
ble, is a worn shift rod (they're brass).<br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><p=
class=3DMsoNormal>On 6/15/2022 7:33 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:m.g.sharp@sympat=
ico.ca">m.g.sharp@sympatico.ca</a> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote s=
tyle=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal>Hi liste=
rs, I am finding that my BT7 (i.e. sideshifter) is dropping out of overdriv=
e if I wiggle the shift lever to the left. This is without doubt open=
ing the contact in the gearbox switch that only permits the O/D to operate =
in 3<sup>rd</sup> and 4<sup>th</sup> thus causing the O/D to disengage.&nbs=
p; Pushing the lever to the right re-engages it. I do not recall any adjust=
ment on the switch to screw it in further, in fact I think it is a pipe thr=
ead and will only go in so far. I am not sure what part of the shift =
lever actually bears on the end of the switch to engage it. The works=
hop manual is not much help in figuring it out. Is it the switch or i=
s it what ever it bears on when in 3<sup>rd</sup> or 4<sup>th</sup>? =
I have not had the g=E2=80=99box cover off to look at it yet but thou=
ght I=E2=80=99d ask the list if anyone had encountered this. <o:p></o=
:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Thoug=
hts and ideas?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p c=
lass=3DMsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p=
></p></blockquote><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div id=
=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
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