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Plausible. I've rebuilt a battery switch, the contacts are pretty beefy
copper plates, and I think they'd melt before they'd warp and return to
shape, but ... plausible.
On 4/5/2022 12:27 PM, Roland Wilhelmy wrote:
> The battery switch is on the light duty side but it must carry the
> full starting current. I can imagine that the terminals inside the
> switch get hot and warp just a bit disconnecting the battery. Then if
> given a chance to cool the terminals return to make connection once more.
>
> Side note: Roger Moment recommends limiting the length of time running
> the starter when firing up a newly rebuilt engine and getting oil
> pressure, etc. Give the poor switch time to recover.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Tue, Apr 5, 2022, 11:53 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> The starter balking is understandable--at least, intuitively--but all
> the other electricals ceasing to work isn't (assuming the battery is
> still connected). After all, this isn't a modern car with a PCM, ECU,
> etc; we're just talking copper wire here. My folks' Lincoln would die
> when one of the CoPs would put a voltage spike on its primary lead,
> which would knock the PCM out cold. No such silliness in a Healey.
>
> Just to be contrarian, maybe the starter is causing a dead short,
> somehow?
>
>
> On 4/5/2022 4:41 AM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:
> > Perry, the ground is negative. From comments made by others am
> just going to replace the ground strap and with serrated washers
> so they dig into the metal especially on the frame. Will keep all
> advised.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
> Perry Small via Healeys
> > Sent: Monday, April 4, 2022 7:32 PM
> > To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Healeys] Starter electrical issues
> >
> > Bob
> > Is it possible that the after market high torque starter that
> you are using is set up for negative ground only? For a contact
> type starter like the original Lucas, it doesnâ??t care but perhaps
> your replacement unit has protection built in.
> > P
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > _______________________________________________
>
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Plausible. I've rebuilt a battery switch, the contacts are pretty
beefy copper plates, and I think they'd melt before they'd warp and
return to shape, but ... plausible.<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/5/2022 12:27 PM, Roland Wilhelmy
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CADpDe+awZ7VT8wS3qPKS6UUhH9efhy1MNj-gXnvvD=v+d5iXmg@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="auto">The battery switch is on the light duty side but
it must carry the full starting current. I can imagine that the
terminals inside the switch get hot and warp just a bit
disconnecting the battery. Then if given a chance to cool the
terminals return to make connection once more.Â
<div dir="auto"><br>
<div dir="auto">Side note: Roger Moment recommends limiting
the length of time running the starter when firing up a
newly rebuilt engine and getting oil pressure, etc. Give the
poor switch time to recover. </div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto">-Roland</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Apr 5, 2022, 11:53 AM
Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">The starter
balking is understandable--at least, intuitively--but all <br>
the other electricals ceasing to work isn't (assuming the
battery is <br>
still connected). After all, this isn't a modern car with a
PCM, ECU, <br>
etc; we're just talking copper wire here. My folks' Lincoln
would die <br>
when one of the CoPs would put a voltage spike on its primary
lead, <br>
which would knock the PCM out cold. No such silliness in a
Healey.<br>
<br>
Just to be contrarian, maybe the starter is causing a dead
short, somehow?<br>
<br>
<br>
On 4/5/2022 4:41 AM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:<br>
> Perry, the ground is negative. From comments made by
others am just going to replace the ground strap and with
serrated washers so they dig into the metal especially on the
frame. Will keep all advised.<br>
><br>
> Bob<br>
><br>
> -----Original Message-----<br>
> From: Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"; target="_blank"
rel="noreferrer" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>
On Behalf Of Perry Small via Healeys<br>
> Sent: Monday, April 4, 2022 7:32 PM<br>
> To: healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
> Subject: [Healeys] Starter electrical issues<br>
><br>
> Bob<br>
> Is it possible that the after market high torque starter
that you are using is set up for negative ground only? For a
contact type starter like the original Lucas, it doesnâ??t care
but perhaps your replacement unit has protection built in.<br>
> P<br>
><br>
> Sent from my iPhone<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
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