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Original equipment would have been solid core wires. The wires terminated a=
t the distributor with small brass washers held in place by placing a short=
length of the core wire through the hole in the center and splaying it to =
hold the washer in place. This assembly was then held in place by plastic a=
corn nuts which screwed into the distributor cap on top of the washers. In =
my research during my last rebuild I decided that I would use a Pertronix i=
gniter. The manufacturer recommends graphite core wires which pose a proble=
m with that type of cap, because the graphite core can=92t be used to hold =
the washers in place. I solved the problem by using small stainless steel s=
crews inserted into the core to hold the washers in place, and thereby the =
wires in the cap.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bs=
pidell@comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, August 27, 2021 1:21 AM
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Distributor Cap
Listers,
I want to replace my BN2's distributor cap. I have what I believe is a
correct aftermarket part (photo). Does anyone know if BN2s used the std.
stranded copper wire plug wires and, if so, how do they attach to the cap?
TIA,
Bob
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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<div>Original equipment would have been solid core wires. The wires termina=
ted at the distributor with small brass washers held in place by placing a =
short length of the core wire through the hole in the center and splaying i=
t to hold the washer in place. This
assembly was then held in place by plastic acorn nuts which screwed into t=
he distributor cap on top of the washers. In my research during my last reb=
uild I decided that I would use a Pertronix igniter. The manufacturer recom=
mends graphite core wires which
pose a problem with that type of cap, because the graphite core can=92t be=
used to hold the washers in place. I solved the problem by using small sta=
inless steel screws inserted into the core to hold the washers in place, an=
d thereby the wires in the cap.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Bill Lawrence</div>
<div>BN1 #554</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-b=
ounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net=
><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, August 27, 2021 1:21 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] BN2 Distributor Cap</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div class=3D"BodyFragment"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt;=
">
<div class=3D"PlainText">Listers,<br>
<br>
I want to replace my BN2's distributor cap. I have what I believe is a <br>
correct aftermarket part (photo). Does anyone know if BN2s used the std. <b=
r>
stranded copper wire plug wires and, if so, how do they attach to the cap?<=
br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
Bob<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
m.net/donate.html</a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.=
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<br>
<br>
Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/ynotink@msn.com">
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