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I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard line
(not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some
contaminant got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but
might prevent withdrawal of the piston.
BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least 20K
miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my Healeys due
to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot completely remove
brake or differential fluid from shoes once they've been soaked).
bs
On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
> Â No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never
> heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston
> obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the
> problem.
> Â So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side
> works fine), correct?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net
>
> Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before
> install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but
> when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not
> be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's
> anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the
> cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed
> several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco
> told me they're fine.
>
>
> On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
>
>  I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers
> side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &
> adjustment, except that on its inaugural run, it became
> quickly apparent that things were not right.
> Â Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
> cylinder was not retracting properly.
> Â Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the
> rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these
> rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes
> - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the
> passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ.
> Driver's side spring is ok btw.
> Â So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber
> pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't
> this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?
>
> Â Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket
> cylinder @ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or
> do I replace both? or?
>
> Â Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both
> are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal
> mounting plate underneath.
>
> Â Thanks in advance,
>
> Neil
>
>
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I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard
line (not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some
contaminant got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure
but might prevent withdrawal of the piston.<br>
<br>
BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least
20K miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my
Healeys due to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot
completely remove brake or differential fluid from shoes once
they've been soaked).<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAFbzz18axOdiuvyVLPZcN_y5KddLdvaPomhmVsv8JL+LLg4QWg@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
Hi Bob,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Â No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before
install (never heard of that one before). The bleeding went
fine, and the piston obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack
of retracting that is the problem.</div>
<div>Â So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger
side works fine), correct?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks in advance</div>
<div><br>
On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <<a
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Did you
disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before
install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but
when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may
not be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if
there's anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong
so the cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've
installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and
Tom Monaco told me they're fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
 I had to replace a leaking, original wheel
cylinder (drivers side) earlier. Everything went fine with
the install & adjustment, except that on its
inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were
not right.<br>
 Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
cylinder was not retracting properly.<br>
 Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace
the rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these
rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear
brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake -
the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.<br>
 So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber
pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't
this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?<br>
<br>
 Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket
cylinder @ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70),
or do I replace both? or?<br>
<br>
 Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both
are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal
mounting plate underneath.<br>
<br>
 Thanks in advance,<br>
<br>
Neil<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
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