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I'll bite: I think you'd need a 'slow blow' fuse, like on the OD for
instance. I usually buy batteries with the most CCA--cold cranking
power, more current is available at higher temps--I can find/fit; some
have 600A or more CCA (IIRC, the AGM in my BJ8 has over 700). An
inductive load, like a motor or solenoid, pulls almost all current
available for a split second, until inductance increases impedance. You
might very well blow this fuse every time you try to start your car.
There was an exhaustive discussion on this on the BCF; IIRC the
conclusion was a fairly complex breaker system would work best. The
simpler answer is to just make sure your cabling is in good nick; a lot
of damage can happen even before a fuse blows. To my knowledge, most/all
modern cars have no protection on starter systems either.
Bob
On 3/11/2021 8:14 AM, Tom via Healeys wrote:
> At the Monday evening Tech Call in hosted by the AHCA New
> England chapter, one caller recounted the story of the hot wire from
> the battery to the the starter grounding out against the chassis, the
> insulation worn out from decades of chaffing.  Needless to say, lots
> of smoke and heat were generated.
>
> After 50+ years of use, it's surprising we don't hear more stories
> like this.  Is there a reason we shouldn't add a fuse?  Fuses like
> this style 500A fuse
> <https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-ANL-500A-Electrical-Protection-Holder/dp/B072PCPN1Q/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=500A+fuse&qid=1615478836&sr=8-4>Â range
>
> from 30A to 600A.  That seems like enough power to run the starter
> and still provide protection against direct short damage.
>
> What does everyone think?
>
> - Tom
>
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I'll bite: I think you'd need a 'slow blow' fuse, like on the OD for
instance. I usually buy batteries with the most CCA--cold cranking
power, more current is available at higher temps--I can find/fit;
some have 600A or more CCA (IIRC, the AGM in my BJ8 has over 700).
An inductive load, like a motor or solenoid, pulls almost all
current available for a split second, until inductance increases
impedance. You might very well blow this fuse every time you try to
start your car.<br>
<br>
There was an exhaustive discussion on this on the BCF; IIRC the
conclusion was a fairly complex breaker system would work best. The
simpler answer is to just make sure your cabling is in good nick; a
lot of damage can happen even before a fuse blows. To my knowledge,
most/all modern cars have no protection on starter systems either.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 3/11/2021 8:14 AM, Tom via Healeys
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CANQM1PKgTM04vvSNvMAS=fqxt139=uZ0Hrpt6OCWK9_VcKV=Wg@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">At the Monday evening Tech Call in hosted by theÂ
AHCA New England chapter, one caller recounted the story of the
hot wire from the battery to the the starter grounding out
against the chassis, the insulation worn out from decades of
chaffing.  Needless to say, lots of smoke and heat were
generated.Â
<div><br>
</div>
<div>After 50+ years of use, it's surprising we don't hear more
stories like this.  Is there a reason we shouldn't add a
fuse?  Fuses like this style <a
href="https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-ANL-500A-Electrical-Protection-Holder/dp/B072PCPN1Q/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=500A+fuse&qid=1615478836&sr=8-4"
moz-do-not-send="true">500A fuse</a>Â range from 30A to
600A.  That seems like enough power to run the starter and
still provide protection against direct short damage.  </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>What does everyone think?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>- Tom</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
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