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I use Kopr-Shield when assembling Lucas bullet connectors.=C2=A0 Did this =
21 years ago with my Bugeye and not one problem with connections corroding =
yet.=C2=A0 Never hardens and does not allow corrosion in electrical joints =
while while aiding conductivity.=C2=A0 It is also used as an anti-sieze com=
pound.
THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compou=
nd
|=20
|=20
| |=20
THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Com...
THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compou=
nd
|
|
|
Mike MacLean
On Monday, February 22, 2021, 8:09:07 AM PST, Bob Spidell <bspidell@com=
cast.net> wrote: =20
=20
That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil filter ga=
skets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our ancient electrical con=
nectors--my dad's Model As used the same type--seems to help prevent some o=
f the Lucas gremlins. I use a silicone 'oil' where light lubrication is nee=
ded and dirt and dust can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on start=
ers come to mind).
=20
I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium chloride; ca=
rs of that era were designed and built to last for only a few years before =
being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over 205K miles and is going st=
rong (but shows her age).
=20
So, Alan, what did you decide?
=20
=20
On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
=20
=20
Bob wrote:=C2=A0 "I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a=
pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubb=
er parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less =
antagonistic to rubber." -------------------------------------------- 50 to=
75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Maybe we should n=
ow be searching for silicon-based motor oils?=20
Best--Michael Oritt =20
On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
=20
re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which origina=
ls are now reaching."
=20
I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh envi=
ronment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a pe=
troleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to ru=
bber.
=20
Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal 'slinger' =
plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an original plate to one o=
f their newer replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?
=20
=20
On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
=20
Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up of the =
rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently disasse=
mbled had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the origin=
al tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which or=
iginals are now reaching.=20
M
=20
On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys@autox.=
team.net> wrote:
=20
In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:=C2=A0 "By=
no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine."=20
About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump=
and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black plastic dist=
ributed throughout the sump.=C2=A0 This was a head scratcher as I knew ther=
e could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was.=C2=A0 Afte=
r thinking=C2=A0about it further I decided that it could only have been the=
remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled=
the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent=C2=A0and the cha=
in pretty loose.=C2=A0 I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job-=
-and magically a chattering sound that had been=C2=A0appearing at certain r=
pm's=C2=A0disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timing cha=
in.=20
Best--Michael Oritt =20
On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote=
:
=20
Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one=20
piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the=20
tailpipe.
=20
By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.
=20
Bob
=20
=20
On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> All -
>
> On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came=20
> off the upper part of the valve guide.
>
> It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one=20
> sells.=C2=A0 I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it,=20
> correct?=C2=A0 It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worrie=
d=20
> but would prefer to not=C2=A0 put it back on and have old rubber parts=
=20
> getting into the oil.
>
> Am I correct to=C2=A0not put it back on?=C2=A0 No one seems to sell thes=
e.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
r.mike@att.net
=20
------=_Part_1342889_926053506.1614034218744
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
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dy><div class=3D"ydpf4484543yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:times ne=
w roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:16px;">
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I use Kopr-Shield when assem=
bling Lucas bullet connectors. Did this 21 years ago with my Bugeye a=
nd not one problem with connections corroding yet. Never hardens and =
does not allow corrosion in electrical joints while while aiding conductivi=
ty. It is also used as an anti-sieze compound.<br></div><div><br></di=
v><div><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><a href=3D"https://=
www.amazon.com/THOMAS-CP8-TB-Container-Kopr-shield-Compound/dp/B07S2RQWN9" =
rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank" class=3D"enhancr_card_4080093625">THOMAS=
& BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compound=
</a></div><div><br></div><div id=3D"ydp3b4106f3enhancr_card_4080093625" cla=
ss=3D"ydp3b4106f3yahoo-link-enhancr-card ydp3b4106f3yahoo-link-enhancr-not-=
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data-size=3D"MEDIUM" contenteditable=3D"false"><a href=3D"https://www.amazo=
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le=3D"font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px 0px 6px; font-family:=
YahooSans, Helvetica Neue, Segoe UI, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; color: =
rgb(38, 40, 42); max-width: 314px;">THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Conta=
iner with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Com...</h2><p class=3D"ydp3b4106f3card-de=
scription" style=3D"font-size: 12px; line-height: 16px; margin: 0px; color:=
rgb(151, 155, 167);">THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brus=
h Kopr-shield Joint Compound</p></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody=
></table></td></tr></tbody></table></a></div></div><div class=3D"ydpf448454=
3yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:times new roman, new york, times, s=
erif;font-size:16px;"><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Mike MacLean<b=
r></div><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"yahoo_quoted_4070815905" class=3D"yahoo_quoted">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div>
On Monday, February 22, 2021, 8:09:07 AM PST, Bob Spide=
ll <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><div id=3D"yiv0473945703"><div>
That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil
filter gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our
ancient electrical connectors--my dad's Model As used the same
type--seems to help prevent some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a
silicone 'oil' where light lubrication is needed and dirt and dust
can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on starters come to
mind).<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium
chloride; cars of that era were designed and built to last for only
a few years before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over
205K miles and is going strong (but shows her age).<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
So, Alan, what did you decide?<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703yqt6555291473" id=3D"yiv0473945703yqtfd33266=
"><div class=3D"yiv0473945703moz-cite-prefix">On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael=
Oritt
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
</blockquote></div></div><div class=3D"yiv0473945703yqt6555291473" id=
=3D"yiv0473945703yqtfd48785"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><span style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255);">Bob wrote: </span><font color=3D"#0000ff">"I'=
m surprised they lasted this long--if
they did--it's a pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a
rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a
petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less
antagonistic to rubber."</font></div>
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D=
"#0000ff">--------------------------------------------</font></div>
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D=
"#0000ff">50 to
75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle. </font>=
</div>
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D=
"#0000ff">Maybe
we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils?</font>=
</div>
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D=
"#0000ff"><br clear=3D"none">
</font></div>
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D=
"#0000ff">Best--Michael
Oritt</font></div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote">
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Feb 21, =
2021 at 3:47
PM Bob Spidell <<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=
=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank" href=3D=
"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br clear=
=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
<div> re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite
life which originals are now reaching."<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a
pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't
lubricate any rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or
oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.<br cle=
ar=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the
metal 'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises
transferring an original plate to one of their newer
replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?<br clear=
=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"font-fam=
ily:sans sans-serif;font-size:small;">Until fairly
recent years I had never experienced the breaking up
of the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but
the engine I recently disassembled had one that was
completely destroyed. Apparently this was the original
tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a
definite life which originals are now reaching.</div>
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"font-fam=
ily:sans sans-serif;font-size:small;"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"font-fam=
ily:sans sans-serif;font-size:small;">M<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote">
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, =
Feb 21, 2021
at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <<a rel=3D"nofoll=
ow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team=
.net" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@auto=
x.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote" style=3D"mar=
gin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1=
ex;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255);">In the string about
rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said: "By
no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside
of an engine."</div>
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255);"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255);">About a year back I
dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil
pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
very hard black plastic distributed throughout the
sump. This was a head scratcher as I knew there
could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet
there it was. After thinking about it furt=
her I
decided that it could only have been the remains
of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure
enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that
the tensioner was non-existent and the chain
pretty loose. I replaced the chain and
tensioner--not an easy job--and magically a
chattering sound that had been appearing at
certain rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic
rattling of the loose timing chain.</div>
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255);"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255);">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote">
<div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On S=
un, Feb 21,
2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <<a rel=3D"nofollow n=
oopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; =
target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.net=
</a>>
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote" style=3D=
"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-le=
ft:1ex;">Most mechanics
favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think
they're one <br clear=3D"none">
piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires
blue smoke from the <br clear=3D"none">
tailpipe.<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the
inside of an engine.<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Bob<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
> All -<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust
valves and this seal came <br clear=3D"none">
> off the upper part of the valve guide.<br clear=
=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> It seems this is an original style valve seal
shroud which no one <br clear=3D"none">
> sells. I assume the best thing is to remov=
e
it and chuck it, <br clear=3D"none">
> correct? It's already half disintegrated a=
nd
I'm not really worried <br clear=3D"none">
> but would prefer to not put it back on and
have old rubber parts <br clear=3D"none">
> getting into the oil.<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> Am I correct to not put it back on? N=
o one
seems to sell these.<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> Best,<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> Alan<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
=20
<br clear=3D"none">
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