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Thanks Hank. Ah, simple enough so the "rubber band" is just used in conjunc=
tion with the rubber boot. That crossed my mind, but was way overthinking i=
t. Crocus Zcloth is basically 1500-2000 grit so kinda basically my "super f=
ine" paper. My thought was that bores aren't typically perfectly smooth, an=
d since the rod slides inside the rear seal, that maybe perfectly smooth is=
n't ideal. Again probably way overthinking it.
I have also had great results with sleeved brake and clutch parts. I went t=
hrough probably 3 sets of repo rear wheel cylinders (Bugeye), before reslee=
ving the original ones. Not one problem since.
The Millers
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test dri=
ve."
________________________________
From: gradea1@charter.net <gradea1@charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 8, 2020 12:51 PM
To: 'S and T Miller' <stmiller96@hotmail.com>
Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 master cylinder rebuild
Don't sand any internal parts. OK to use crocus cloth to polish but no emer=
y or other abrasive. Clean all with brake fluid. Rubber sleeve can go ove=
r the boot when installed to keep dirt out and boot from slipping...use rub=
ber grease to lube all rubber.
Brake Pedals & Master Cylinders BN1, BN2
[https://mossmotors.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/17f82f742ffe127=
f42dca9de82fb58b1/A/H/AHY-057_1.jpg]
If you sleeve the cylinders they will be a permanent fix, but costly. If t=
he bore is clean-no pits or scores then you do not need to sleeve. End cap =
is for access and is original. See pictures attached. Hank, healeyhelper.co=
m
-----------------------------------------
From: "S and T Miller"
To: "healeys@autox.team.net"
Cc:
Sent: Tuesday December 8 2020 6:07:18AM
Subject: [Healeys] 100 master cylinder rebuild
Included in the Moss seal rebuild kit is a large wide/thin "rubber band" ty=
pe seal that is not pictured in the service manual. I assume it goes over =
the thin round "castle top" spacer in the end cover??? Also my "castle top"=
spacer is removable (also not pictured seperate in service manual). Is thi=
s correct or an aftermarket MC?
Also looking for plunger surface prep advise since it is a sealing surface =
and slides in the rear seal. Polish it? Super fine sandpaper? Just clean it=
? I plan to send the body out to be re-bushed.
Thank you, Shawn
The Millers
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test dri=
ve."
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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
</head>
<body>
<div>Thanks Hank. Ah, simple enough so the "rubber band" is just =
used in conjunction with the rubber boot. That crossed my mind, but was way=
overthinking it. C<span style=3D"color: rgb(33, 33, 33); font-family: &quo=
t;Segoe UI WestEuropean", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans=
-serif; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal=
; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400;">rocus
Zcloth is basically 1500-2000 grit so kinda basically my "super fine&=
quot; paper. My thought was that bores aren't typically perfectly smooth, a=
nd since the rod slides inside the rear seal, that maybe perfectly smooth i=
sn't ideal. Again probably way overthinking
it. </span></div>
<div><span style=3D"color: rgb(33, 33, 33); font-family: "Segoe UI Wes=
tEuropean", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-s=
ize: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant=
-caps: normal; font-weight: 400;"><br>
</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"color: rgb(33, 33, 33); font-family: "Segoe UI Wes=
tEuropean", "Segoe UI", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-s=
ize: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant=
-caps: normal; font-weight: 400;">I have also had great
results with sleeved brake and clutch parts. I went through probably 3 set=
s of repo rear wheel cylinders (Bugeye), before resleeving the original one=
s. Not one problem since. </span></div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
<br>
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive."<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> gradea1@charter.net &=
lt;gradea1@charter.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, December 8, 2020 12:51 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'S and T Miller' <stmiller96@hotmail.com><br>
<b>Cc:</b> 'healeys@autox.team.net' <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> RE: [Healeys] 100 master cylinder rebuild</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>Don't sand any internal parts. OK to use crocus cloth to polish but no=
emery or other abrasive. Clean all with brake fluid. Rubber sl=
eeve can go over the boot when installed to keep dirt out and boot from sli=
pping...use rubber grease to lube all rubber.
<h1 class=3D"x_schematic-product-name" style=3D"box-sizing:border-box; marg=
in:0px 0px 10px; padding:0px; font-size:28px; color:rgb(79,80,94); line-hei=
ght:1.2; border:0px; font-family:Lato,"Helvetica Neue",Arial,sans=
-serif; background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">
Brake Pedals & Master Cylinders BN1, BN2</h1>
<div class=3D"x_schematic-media" style=3D"box-sizing:border-box; margin:0px=
; padding:0px; color:rgb(99,99,99); font-family:Lato,"Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;,Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">
<img class=3D"x_img_map" usemap=3D"#x_product-map" style=3D"box-sizing:bord=
er-box; margin:20px 0px; padding:0px; border:0px; display:block; max-width:=
100%" src=3D"https://mossmotors.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/17f=
82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/A/H/AHY-057_1.jpg"></div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>If you sleeve the cylinders they will be a permanent fix, but costly.&=
nbsp; If the bore is clean-no pits or scores then you do not need to sleeve=
. End cap is for access and is original. See pictures attached. Hank, heale=
yhelper.com<br>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_reply-new-signature"></div>
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>
From: "S and T Miller" <br>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net"<br>
Cc: <br>
Sent: Tuesday December 8 2020 6:07:18AM<br>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 master cylinder rebuild<br>
<br>
<div>Included in the Moss seal rebuild kit is a large wide/thin "rubbe=
r band" type seal that is not pictured in the service manual. I =
assume it goes over the thin round "castle top" spacer in the end=
cover??? Also my "castle top" spacer is removable (also
not pictured seperate in service manual). Is this correct or an aftermarke=
t MC?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Also looking for plunger surface prep advise since it is a sealing sur=
face and slides in the rear seal. Polish it? Super fine sandpaper? Just cle=
an it? I plan to send the body out to be re-bushed. </div>
<div>Thank you, Shawn</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
<br>
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a tes=
t drive."<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>
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