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Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the =
likelihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on =
this list J), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel =
seizing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for =
grease. Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas the intent of =
applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce =
friction (i.e., lubricate). For that reason I have always used an =
anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize =
Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually =
uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have =
never had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines. A very fine =
smear of grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is =
a good thing as the intent there IS to lubricate. Also, providing it is =
used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the =
spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing =
sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub. Not =
to say grease does not work, it will, but why not use a product designed =
for the purpose, and achieve clean spokes at the same time?
=20
Cheers, Mirek
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
gradea1@charter.net
Sent: May-10-20 1:39 PM
To: 'Perry'
Cc: 'healeys@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs
=20
Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff bottoms out on the =
spline face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel? A =
combination of measured errors on replacement parts could create this =
condition-front to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be =
whaled upon. If properly applied each side they are self tightening and =
I normally spin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while =
still up in the air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with =
the copper side of Thor.
=20
One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a =
knockoff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound =
long handle sledge hammer! Flat ears? you betcha.
=20
I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just =
forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts =
metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub.=20
=20
Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and =
knockoff threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease so =
it doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank
-----------------------------------------
From: "Perry via Healeys"=20
To: "rrengineer.mike@att.net"
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net"
Sent: Sunday May 10 2020 9:01:21AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs
Michael et al,
Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire =
wheel hub and the knockoff.=20
The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in =
the face of the extension. No rotational movement.
The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The =
tolerances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but =
they have to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension.=20
What else holds the wheel in place=E2=80=A6the knockoff. The cone in the =
knock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The =
contact interface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel =
hub. You know the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a =
smear of grease to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the =
knock off is tight enough there is not movement here either.
So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, =
the knock off is not tight enough. =20
Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem =
of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed =
(left and right) threads that self tighten.=20
Gentlemen, remember your Mother today!
Perry
=20
Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986> for =
Windows 10
=20
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM
Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III
=20
At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house. =
I even have my groceries delivered. I will only go out to eat at a =
drive through with an N95 mask on. My Boston Terrier that goes with me =
does not wear one. He refuses, but he is only three years old. So, =
being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of my =
BN2 with a vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. =
Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts =
incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just my general =
ignorance and/or incompetence. This evening I finished mounting the =
right side front hub with all new parts. I thought I had done a nice =
job. No lateral play in the hub. Turns easily without binding. The =
correct amount of shims after much trial and error. Disc brake =
conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines =
hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the brake lines. Maybe next. =
This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. I mounted the =
wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the =
car when it is down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I gave =
the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of =
truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled =
straight back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel it =
moved slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely you can =
see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff! What!?! =
How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs?
Mike MacLean
=20
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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Perhaps a =
little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the likelihood =
of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on this list =
<span style=3D'font-family:Wingdings'>J</span>), but regarding what to =
use on splines to stop the wheel seizing on, I have never understood why =
the recommendation is always for grease.=C2=A0 Grease is designed to =
lubricate parts, whereas=C2=A0 the intent of applying it to the splines =
is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce friction (i.e., =
lubricate).=C2=A0 For that reason I have always used an anti-seizing =
product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (they =
call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually uses it to =
lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never had an =
issue with a wheel sizing on the splines.=C2=A0 A very fine smear of =
grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good =
thing as the intent there IS to lubricate.=C2=A0 Also, providing it is =
used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto the =
spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing =
sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the spoke heads inside the =
hub.=C2=A0 Not to say grease does not work, it will, but why not use a =
product designed for the purpose, and achieve clean spokes at the same =
time?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Cheers, Mirek<o:p></o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Healeys =
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>gradea1@charter.net<br><b>Sent:</b> May-10-20 1:39 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
'Perry'<br><b>Cc:</b> 'healeys@autox.team.net'<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: =
[Healeys] Part III Knock offs<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Replacement =
parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff bottoms out on the spline face =
before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel? A combination of =
measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-front =
to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled =
upon. If properly applied each side they are self tightening and I =
normally spin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while =
still up in the air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with =
the copper side of Thor.<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC =
"mechanic" whaling on a knockoff of the Healey, still hanging =
on the lube rack, with a ten pound long handle sledge hammer! Flat =
ears? you betcha.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>I =
would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just =
forward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts =
metal as it snugs it to the rear ring on the =
hub. <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Also-grease-not to much- but be sure =
splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff threads have a light smear. I use =
HD wheel bearing grease so it doesn't seep out the spoke nibs like =
moly or light grease would. =
Hank<o:p></o:p></p><p>-----------------------------------------<o:p></o:p=
></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>From: =
"Perry via Healeys" <br>To: =
"rrengineer.mike@att.net"<br>Cc: =
"healeys@autox.team.net"<br>Sent: Sunday May 10 2020 =
9:01:21AM<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III =
Knock offs<span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Michael et =
al,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Contemplate the mechanical =
connections between the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>The hub extension is bolted to the =
axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No =
rotational movement.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>The wire wheel =
is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tolerances in the =
splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have to be loose =
enough to get the wheel off the extension. <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>What else holds the wheel in place=E2=80=A6the =
knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hub against =
the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub =
extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are =
frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little =
squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is =
not movement here either.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>So Mike, if =
you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock off =
is not tight enough. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Suspect =
that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of =
owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left =
and right) threads that self tighten. <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Gentlemen, remember your Mother =
today!<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Perry<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Sent from <a =
href=3D"https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986";>Mail</a> for =
Windows 10<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From: </b><a =
href=3D"mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net";>Michael MacLean</a><br><b>Sent: =
</b>Sunday, May 10, 2020 12:57 AM<br><b>To: </b><a =
href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>Healeys</a><br><b>Subject: =
</b>[Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New =
Roman","serif"'>At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock =
down at my house. I even have my groceries delivered. I will =
only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on. My =
Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one. He refuses, =
but he is only three years old. So, being sequestered to my =
domicile I have taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a =
vengeance. I did not know I knew so many off color phrases. =
Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts =
incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just my =
general ignorance and/or incompetence. This evening I finished =
mounting the right side front hub with all new parts. I thought I =
had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. Turns =
easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much =
trial and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided =
stainless steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have =
yet to run the brake lines. Maybe next. This rant is =
about the brand new Dayton wire wheels. I mounted the wire wheels =
which have temporary used tires on them so I can move the car when it is =
down off the dollies. After mounting the wheel I gave the two =
eared knockoff several pretty good whacks. Now the moment of =
truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pulled =
straight back and forth. Yay! No play, but when I rocked the wheel =
it moved slightly. I thought it was the hub, but looking closely =
you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the =
knockoff! What!?! How hard are you supposed to hit those =
knockoffs?</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman","serif"'>Mike =
MacLean</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p></div></div></body></html>
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