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Listers,
I am starting to do some of the cold weather work on my BJ8 and I have 2
questions.
1. My choke cable is extremely difficult to pull out, it takes both hands
on the knob to move the knob out far enough to activate the chokes. What
is the best/easy way to access the old cable for removal? I have a new
choke cable to install but how do I route the new cable around behind the
dash so there are no kinks (I suspect that is my current problem) and to
avoid the heater/defroster hoses and anything else which may be in the
way. I would like to get the new cable in so that it works smoothly and
with just one hand. Should I use grease or graphite on the cable to help?
Ideas? "I did it this way and it worked great." Tips and tricks?
2. A couple of months ago, I had an issue with my downpipes that came
loose from the exhaust manifold. On the down pipes, I removed the brass
nuts and split washers and replaced them with new stuff. Upon close
inspection, I now find that the intake and exhaust manifolds have also
worked loose from the head. However, on the manifolds, there is a flat
washer against the manifolds, then a split washer and then the brass nut.
Which is the correct method of assembly; flat washer then split washer and
brass nut, no split washer or no flat washer. Should the downpipes be
bolted together the same as the exhaust/intake manifolds to the head? What
is causing these exhaust parts to come loose and what do I do to prevent
this from happening? What is the thinking of those who have rebuilt
engines and what has worked?
Thanks for the collective wisdom here.
Fred
66BJ8
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Listers,<div><br></div><div>I am starting to do some of th=
e cold weather work on my BJ8 and I have 2 questions.</div><div><br></div><=
div>1.=C2=A0 My choke cable is extremely difficult to pull out, it takes bo=
th hands on the knob to move the knob out far enough to activate the chokes=
.=C2=A0 What is the best/easy way to access the old cable for removal?=C2=
=A0 I have a new choke cable to install but how do I route the new cable ar=
ound behind the dash so there are no kinks (I suspect that is my current pr=
oblem) and to avoid the heater/defroster hoses and anything else which may =
be in the way.=C2=A0 I would like to get the new cable in so that it works =
smoothly and with just one hand.=C2=A0 Should I use grease or graphite on t=
he cable to help?=C2=A0 Ideas?=C2=A0 "I did it this way and it worked =
great."=C2=A0 Tips and tricks?</div><div><br></div><div>2.=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0A couple of months ago, I had an issue with=C2=A0my=20
downpipes
that came loose from the=20
exhaust manifold.=C2=A0 On the down pipes, I removed the brass nuts and spl=
it washers and replaced them with new stuff.=C2=A0 Upon close inspection, I=
now find that the intake and exhaust manifolds have also worked loose from=
the head.=C2=A0 However, on the manifolds, there is a flat washer against =
the manifolds, then a split washer and then the brass nut.=C2=A0 Which is t=
he correct method of assembly; flat washer then split washer and brass nut,=
no split washer or no flat washer.=C2=A0 Should the downpipes be bolted to=
gether the same as the exhaust/intake manifolds to the head? What is causin=
g these exhaust parts to come loose and what do I do to prevent this from h=
appening?=C2=A0 What is the thinking of those who have rebuilt engines and =
what has worked?</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks for the collective wisdom =
here.</div><div><br></div><div>Fred=C2=A0</div><div>66BJ8</div></div>
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