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"... disk brakes are substantially different to work on than drums ..."
ARGH ... should be 'substantially EASIER to work on than drums ...'
On 9/17/2019 8:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> OK, I just had a panic attack as I didn't remember any 'rubber seal
> that presses onto its inside edge is also in place.' According to the
> Moss catalog, at least, the later BJ8s had a backing plate with a
> smaller cutout that didn't require the seal. There are other
> differences between earlier and later '3000s'--not the least the
> calipers, the pads and the thickness of the rotors--so we might need
> to be more specific.
>
> My BJ8 has always needed about 0.030" of shims give-or-take through a
> couple sets of hubs and bearings. All things considered, disk brakes
> are substantially different to work on than drums (IMO, of course).
>
> Bob
>
> On 9/17/2019 8:07 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> Yes, you do need the back plate, and I would ensure that the rubber
>> seal that presses onto its inside edge is also in place. If you
>> donâ??t have them (they deteriorate over time), they are available from
>> the usual suppliers. You are right the drawings on assembly are
>> ambiguous â?? even in the parts book. I put mine on the way they came
>> off, and it has been five years since I last did them. I recall it
>> is relatively obvious but I always note the assembly when taking it
>> apart.  I donâ??t trust my memory to describe it â?? I will leave that
>> to others.
>>
>> Donâ??t be intimidated by setting up the front bearings, it really is
>> not that hard at all and the factory workshop manual provides good
>> guidance. Norm Nock also has a description in his book â??Tech Talkâ??,
>> which is still available from British Car Specialists. Â Â It is
>> important to have a selection of a few shims handy. When I last did
>> mine, I followed the workshop procedure and when I got it almost
>> perfect added/subtracted shims and spun the hub by hand, feeling for
>> drag until I was satisfied that the bearings were running free, but
>> that there was absolutely no end- play in them.  Some people use a
>> dial gauge to measure end-float, but I think it is unnecessary and
>> have always (i.e., for over 40 years), done it by feel. Â Â Make sure
>> when you are setting up the bearings that you have some good calipers
>> (i.e., decent metal ones, not plastic), or use a micrometer, to check
>> the shim thicknesses â?? donâ??t rely on whatever the package says â??
>> measure  them! Do not grease the bearings when setting them up. I
>> sprayed mine with some WD40 to provide some lubrication just while
>> setting them up as you should not spin dry bearings, but a very light
>> oil (3 in 1?) would probably be OK. When you are satisfied with the
>> set up, then disassemble, noting the shims you used, wash out the
>> light oil you used with a solvent, then pack the bearings, install
>> the seal and put it all back together. Â Be sure to dry _all _the
>> solvent out of the bearings, preferably using compressed air, but
>> paper towel and perhaps a hair dryer would work, Â before packing with
>> grease.
>>
>> Getting this right is really important as it substantially adds to
>> the strength of the front axle assemble and minimizes cracking and
>> failure of the stub axle.
>>
>> Put on some music, have a beer, and enjoy it.
>>
>> Cheers, Mirek
>>
>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
>> *Michael MacLean
>> *Sent:* September-17-19 4:14 PM
>> *To:* Healeys
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] 3000 Front Brakes
>>
>> Can someone post a PDF of a service manual parts breakdown
>> illustration of the front disc brakes of a 3000? I see the picture
>> in the Moss catalog, but I do not see the way the backplate attaches
>> to the assembly. Do I even need to attach the backplates? Right now
>> I have a bare swivel axle and need the assembly order of the brakes
>> and extended splined hub. As far as I can glean from all the info I
>> have gathered so far, the caliper mounting plate should go on first,
>> then the splined hub and disc assembly. (a major source of
>> apprehension in itself)Â After that I can assemble the caliper and
>> brake line connections. Did I miss something? That kind of glosses
>> the assembly over. It's going to be more work than it sounds as I
>> have never done anything other that drum brakes on the front of my
>> Bugeye. The splined hub installation with the shims and lining up
>> the split pin sound like barrels of fun. It's finally cool enough
>> nights to go back out into my garage and bust some knuckles.
>>
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>>
>
>
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"... <span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">disk
brakes are substantially different to work on than drums ..."<br>
<br>
ARGH ... should be 'substantially EASIER to work on than drums
...'<br>
<br>
</span><br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/17/2019 8:21 PM, Bob Spidell
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:b004894a-4874-c9f1-e4cf-e63337173e49@comcast.net">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
OK, I just had a panic attack as I didn't remember any '<span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">rubber
seal that presses onto its inside edge is also in place.'Â
According to the Moss catalog, at least, the later BJ8s had a
backing plate with a smaller cutout that didn't require the
seal. There are other differences between earlier and later
'3000s'--not the least the calipers, the pads and the thickness
of the rotors--so we might need to be more specific.<br>
<br>
My BJ8 has always needed about 0.030" of shims give-or-take
through a couple sets of hubs and bearings. All things
considered, disk brakes are substantially different to work on
than drums (IMO, of course).<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
</span><br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/17/2019 8:07 PM, Mirek Sharp
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:008301d56dce$256711e0$703535a0$@sympatico.ca">
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Mike,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Yes,
you do need the back plate, and I would ensure that the
rubber seal that presses onto its inside edge is also in
place. If you donâ??t have them (they deteriorate over
time), they are available from the usual suppliers. You
are right the drawings on assembly are ambiguous â?? even in
the parts book. I put mine on the way they came off, and
it has been five years since I last did them. I recall it
is relatively obvious but I always note the assembly when
taking it apart.  I donâ??t trust my memory to describe it
â?? I will leave that to others.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Donâ??t
be intimidated by setting up the front bearings, it really
is not that hard at all and the factory workshop manual
provides good guidance. Norm Nock also has a description
in his book â??Tech Talkâ??, which is still available from
British Car Specialists. Â Â It is important to have a
selection of a few shims handy. When I last did mine, I
followed the workshop procedure and when I got it almost
perfect added/subtracted shims and spun the hub by hand,
feeling for drag until I was satisfied that the bearings
were running free, but that there was absolutely no end-
play in them.  Some people use a dial gauge to measure
end-float, but I think it is unnecessary and have always
(i.e., for over 40 years), done it by feel. Â Â Make sure
when you are setting up the bearings that you have some
good calipers (i.e., decent metal ones, not plastic), or
use a micrometer, to check the shim thicknesses â?? donâ??t
rely on whatever the package says â?? measure  them! Do not
grease the bearings when setting them up. I sprayed mine
with some WD40 to provide some lubrication just while
setting them up as you should not spin dry bearings, but a
very light oil (3 in 1?) would probably be OK. When you
are satisfied with the set up, then disassemble, noting
the shims you used, wash out the light oil you used with a
solvent, then pack the bearings, install the seal and put
it all back together. Â Be sure to dry <u>all </u>the
solvent out of the bearings, preferably using compressed
air, but paper towel and perhaps a hair dryer would work,
 before packing with grease. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Getting
this right is really important as it substantially adds to
the strength of the front axle assemble and minimizes
cracking and failure of the stub axle.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Put
on some music, have a beer, and enjoy it.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"">Cheers,Â
Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif""><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""
lang="EN-US"> Healeys [<a
class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael MacLean<br>
<b>Sent:</b> September-17-19 4:14 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] 3000 Front
Brakes<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Can someone post a PDF of a service
manual parts breakdown illustration of the front disc
brakes of a 3000? I see the picture in the Moss
catalog, but I do not see the way the backplate attaches
to the assembly. Do I even need to attach the
backplates? Right now I have a bare swivel axle and
need the assembly order of the brakes and extended
splined hub. As far as I can glean from all the info I
have gathered so far, the caliper mounting plate should
go on first, then the splined hub and disc assembly. (a
major source of apprehension in itself)Â After that I
can assemble the caliper and brake line connections.Â
Did I miss something? That kind of glosses the assembly
over. It's going to be more work than it sounds as I
have never done anything other that drum brakes on the
front of my Bugeye. The splined hub installation with
the shims and lining up the split pin sound like barrels
of fun. It's finally cool enough nights to go back out
into my garage and bust some knuckles.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mike MacLean<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
<br>
<fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys";>http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>Healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys";>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>
</pre>
</blockquote>
<br>
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