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Patrick--
If, as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge when the fan is
running I would be concerned for the state of your charging circuit. I
assume you have a generator if you have an ammeter and
I believe the generators on Healeys are rated at 30 amps which should be
more than sufficient to keep up with the draw of an auxiliary fan: the SPAL
site rates their fans as drawing no more than 78 amps (
https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm).
Best--Michael Oritt
On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
wrote:
> Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps which will resul=
t
> in a negative charge hence the ign. light is coming on, probably only whe=
n
> idling. Before you most likely had the fan wired directly from the main
> circuit in series with the Amp. meter and not through the ignition circui=
t
> so the light might not show. You could operating the fan using a relay
> switched on by the under dash switch but getting the main current from th=
e
> battery. It will not solve the negative charge but it may avoid the light
> coming on.
>
> Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps than necessary=
.
> However the fan is only on for a very short while unless in prolonged ver=
y
> heavy traffic and on long and slow steep inclines
>
> The best way is to revert to the old situation with the thermo-switch
> (wired through the ignition circuit and use the manual switch as an
> override switch so when you switch of the ignition the fan will not work.
> These should switch a relay with the main current coming directly from th=
e
> main circuit with the Ampmeter
>
> Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95=C2=B0C and cuts out at about
> 5-10=C2=B0C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
>
> Hello
>
>
>
> Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics.
>
>
>
> My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that was
> controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a b=
it
> of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would alwa=
ys
> hover in the negative.
>
>
>
> Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been =
wired
> direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken
> directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan on=
ly
> comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.
>
>
>
> Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminate=
d
> and will not go out.
>
>
>
> Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have=
done? I
> am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the
> ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would
> that work?
>
>
>
> Any electrical whizzes out there?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
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_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient> Virus-free.
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Patri=
ck--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">If, as you say, the car =
is always in a state of discharge when the fan is running I would be concer=
ned for the state of your charging circuit.=C2=A0 I assume you have a gener=
ator if you have an ammeter and=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"color:#3333ff">I believe the generators on Healeys are rated at=
30 amps which should be more than sufficient to keep up with the draw of a=
n auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans as drawing no more than 78 =
amps (<a href=3D"https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm";>https://w=
ww.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm</a>).=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D=
"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defau=
lt" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div></div><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, May 25, 2019=
at 4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs <<a href=3D"mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl"; ta=
rget=3D"_blank">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px soli=
d rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
<p>Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps which
will result in a negative charge hence the ign. light is coming
on, probably only when idling. Before you most likely had the fan
wired directly from the main circuit in series with the Amp. meter
and not through the ignition circuit so the light might not show.
You could operating the fan using a relay switched on by the under
dash switch but getting the main current from the battery. It will
not solve the negative charge but it may avoid the light coming
on.</p>
<p>Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps than
necessary. However the fan is only on for a very short while
unless in prolonged very heavy traffic and on long and slow steep
inclines<br>
</p>
<p>The best way is to revert to the old situation with the
thermo-switch (wired through the ignition circuit and use the
manual switch as an override switch so when you switch of the
ignition the fan will not work. These should switch a relay with
the main current coming directly from the main circuit with the
Ampmeter<br>
</p>
<p>Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95=C2=B0C and cuts out at
about 5-10=C2=B0C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class=3D"gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469mo=
z-cite-prefix">Op 25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick
& Caroline Quinn:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
=20
=20
<div class=3D"gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469=
WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Hello<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Seeking advice from those who
understand automotive electrics.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>My real Healey has an
electric fan in front of the radiator that was controlled by
a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a
bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge
needle would always hover in the negative. <u></u><u></u></span=
></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Personally I don=E2=80=99t like
thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired direct and
operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken
directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so
that the fan only comes on when the ignition is on along
with the specific switch.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Works well, but now when the
fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will not
go out.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Does that mean that the
ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have done? I am
thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side
of the ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct
from the battery. Would that work?<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Any electrical whizzes out
there?<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Thanks<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Blue Mountains, Australia <u></u><u></=
u></span></p>
</div>
<div id=3D"gmail-m_6620321412179458365gmail-m_-1022862323478581469DAB=
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